Story: Tran Hong Ngoc
Photos: TONKIN

When the sun’s scorching gaze turns to gleaming beams of gold and whispering breezes mellow the summer heat, I find my way back to my favorite seaside destination – Phu Yen. Cool autumn breezes blow salty gusts off the vast jade green sea to create a calming and romantic vibe. The clear blue sky, rays of sunlight scintillating on the glistening sand, and tiny purple flowers, hidden from plain view, give Phu Yen a tranquil charm.

There are many boats in Xuan Hai Village

THE FISHING VILLAGE OF XUAN HAI

Each time I visit Phu Yen, I always make a detour to the fishing village of Xuan Hai in Song Cau Commune. While I have visited many fishing villages along the North-South coast, my heart lies in Xuan Hai, which is home to the most coracles. Xuan Hai’s coracles are rather large, boasting a diameter of two to three meters. They are powered by electric motors and painted blue. From above, they resemble blue umbrellas lined up along the coast. Against the shiny yellow sand they look even more vibrant. Gazing at the coracles from afar, I always dream of stepping inside one to brave the waves that rock these boats back and forth, while sharing a local fisherman’s joy as he pulls up a bountiful catch. In the early mornings, I enjoy strolling from the beach through the winding roads that lead deeper into the village, where local houses hide beneath the foliage of towering coconut trees, enveloped by the azure sky and the jade green sea. Here and there, the calls of mothers and grandmothers echo, mingling with the laughter of children. This intimate and rustic image, with all the characteristics of a seaside village, never fails to make my heart flutter.

Mui Dien Lighthouse

MUI DIEN LIGHTHOUSE

On an autumn morning, if you wish to catch the earliest sunbeams in Vietnam, make your way to Mui Dien Lighthouse, also called Dai Lanh Lighthouse. Standing atop a windswept hill, surrounded by nothing but sea and sky, the red haze of dawn sleepily lights up the horizon, and brilliant sunbeams strike the glistening sea and the distant mountains. Suddenly, everything springs back to life, dancing in the autumn dawn. This is indeed an awe-inspiring experience. Mui Dien Lighthouse was originally built by the French in 1890 with a total area of 300m 2 . After 55 years of service, it stopped operations in 1961. It was not until 1995 that the lighthouse was put back into service, with its light capable of illuminating up to 27 nautical miles to guide distant ships to safety. At the foot of the lighthouse lies stunning Mon Beach, nestled between two overreaching headlands that form a crescent that protects the beach from strong winds and creates a poetic landscape. This white-sand beach is surrounded by mountains, forests, and a nearby stream. Mon Beach remains relatively untouched with very little traffic, making it a favorite spot for travelers who enjoy natural beauty.

Xep Beach

DREAMY XEP BEACH

Those who have watched the movie “Yellow Flowers on the Green Grass” by director Victor Vu surely recall romantic and serene Xep Beach. Visitors who have not will be awed by its amazing appearance. Located in An Chan Commune, Tuy An District, which is about 14 kilometers north of Tuy Hoa City, Xep Beach retains a natural and gentle charm, like the people who grow up here. The unique landscape includes endless grassy hills, cacti, and tiny yellow wildflowers set among a backdrop of black granite cliffs washed by crashing waves that resemble silken scarves.

I take a stroll along the rocky columns, letting my mind drift aimlessly amidst the vastness of the sea and sky while enjoying the clear autumn air. All my worries seem to have shattered and evaporated into the azure sky, the breAll my worries seem to have shattered and evaporated into the azure sky, the breezes, and the mountains, leaving behind only my pure love for the endless sea.