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Story: Hoang Bui
Photos: Duc Thanh, Nguyen Hai
Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, thanks to its distinctive geomorphology and geology, as well as what this region reveals about the formation of the earth’s crust. Located in Quang Binh province, this park contains enormous and mysterious caves, including the Tiger Cave system, which is made up of Dai A Cave, Kong Collapse, Over Cave, and Pygmy Cave.
Join us on a three-day, two-night tour to discover the Tiger Cave system. In terms of route complexity, the Tiger Cave Series Adventure Tour is ranked 6 /7, with 7 being the most challenging. We were excited to attempt various challenges, such as crossing rocky terrain, swimming through underground rivers, swinging on ropes, rock climbing, and more.
Our journey began from the 24th kilometer on 20 Quyet Thang Road. The 11km-long walk to Dai A Cave took us through lush tropical forest. Dai A Cave was discovered and mapped by the British Caving Association in 1997. The cave is 1,616m-long, 46m-deep, and has a 50m-wide entrance.
The cave’s first lower entrance is via an underground river that originates in the valleys of the Ruc Ca Roong region. The water flows through the entrance and reaches a spectacular exit – the Kong Collapse. We had to swim 300m along the pitch-black underground river, in temperatures of 17-18 degrees Celsius, with only a small headlamp for illumination. It was a spine-tingling experience that would surely thrill even the most daring adventurers. After conquering the underground river, our crew reached the Kong Collapse. One of the tallest sinkholes in the world, Kong Collapse is as tall as 450m from top to bottom and contains many surprises. It is aptly named for its shape, similar to the enormous head of King Kong when seen from the top. The sinkhole is known not only for its peculiar shape surrounded by rocky mountains but also for its underground river and primitive forest, making it an ideal campsite.
We spent our first night among the majestic scenery of this underground stream. With no phone signal, dozens of people sat around in the light of headlamps hanging from the cliffs. As we waited for our meal, our tour guide shared stories of the mountains and how the caves were discovered.
Dinner was quite lavish with many hot dishes and well-prepared meat and vegetables. Thanks to our long hours on the strenuous forest trail, we slept soundly, surrounded by the sounds of nature.
We spent our first night among the majestic scenery of this underground stream. With no phone signal, dozens of people sat around in the light of headlamps hanging from the cliffs. As we waited for our meal, our tour guide shared stories of the mountains and how the caves were discovered.
Dinner was quite lavish with many hot dishes and well-prepared meat and vegetables. Thanks to our long hours on the strenuous forest trail, we slept soundly, surrounded by the sounds of nature.
Next morning, the fragrant smell of coffee and hot tea washed away our fatigue and we continued our adventure to conquer Over Cave. Of the three linked caves in the Tiger Cave system, the middle cave is the longest. Located 100m from Dai A Cave, Over Cave is 3,244m-long and 104m-deep. It is 30m-wide and has an entrance that stands 25m-tall and spans as much as 125m.
Most of Day 2 was spent underground with no natural light. Since we had to rely on our headlamps we dubbed this “a journey of fireflies”. Over Cave is home to strange geological structures formed over millions of years, with dripping water stalactites, dry limestone wells, and cave pearls (stones formed via the precipitation process of limestone). The ground was muddy and wet, making trekking here more difficult. The lunch we ate in the darkness of Over Cave was simpler and more rustic, consisting of cucumber salad and rice balls with sesame salt. Everyone found this delicious as we had lost so much energy.
After a few minutes’ rest we ventured from Over Cave to the sinkhole that is the back entrance of Pygmy Cave. This sinkhole houses a vast primitive evergreen forest. Some 300m into the sinkhole, we reached giant Pygmy Cave.
We donned safety belts and took turns following an 80m-long safety rope to the cave’s floor. The Dinosaur’s Spine is another challenge that requires swinging down a 15m-tall cliff.
Pygmy Cave, also known as En Ruc Ca Roong Cave, is currently the fourth-largest cave in the world, according to the British Caving Association, after its discovery in 1997. In its vast entrance, humans appear very small. After the intense rock climbing, our crew arrived at a camp site in the main entrance where we spent our last night.
On the cave’s floor, ferns grew toward the light, swaying in the wind. All our fatigue vanished as we admired Mother Nature’s blessings. Darkness fell so quickly. Dinner was served and we all had a lot to talk about after two days of traveling.
On the third day, the sound of swallows chirping woke us as the first light entered the cave. After breakfast, we continued our journey out of Pygmy Cave. The way back was equally arduous, with many slippery, moss-covered crevices to overcome. Let Slope (meaning “to drag”) and Co Slope took our strength and determination. The rumors were true – we had to sit down and drag ourselves little by little to cross Let Slope. After a long journey, our crew finally reached the 25th kilometer. We felt great joy at having successfully explored the Tiger Cave System.
Those three days and two nights brought so many emotions. Worry, fear, admiration, surprise, and awe… Our crew will never forget this journey. If you’d like a similar experience what are you waiting for? Pack your backpacks and head straight to Quang Binh province!
