Story: Huong Quynh
Photos: Amachau, Mai Anh Tu
In Tam Dao, mist, forests, and quiet mountain paths invite travelers to slow down and breathe deeply.
Not far from Hanoi, Tam Dao enjoys a cool mountain climate, making it an ideal escape from the city’s noise. I do not need a packed itinerary. After a few winding turns with the car windows rolled down to let the mountain air rush in, I can already feel life’s familiar pace fading away, replaced by a greener, more peaceful world.
Precious silence
In the early 20th century, French colonists chose Tam Dao as a summer mountain retreat, drawn by its elevation, forests, and mild climate, which made it an ideal place for rest and relaxation. Though tourism has transformed the town over time, Tam Dao still attracts visitors seeking relief from the summer heat.
I arrived in Tam Dao on a bright summer day, the road growing steeper as the car followed winding mountain curves. The air gradually turned cooler, while the surrounding greenery deepened in color. I chose a homestay with a wide view, where I could watch mist drift across the mountain slopes in the early morning – one of Tam Dao’s most distinctive charms. Gentle hillsides, half-hidden rooftops, and small clusters of wildflowers along the roadside slowly softened something inside me.
Tam Dao is still known as a summer retreat, yet it is also home to many spiritual sites nestled in the mountains. Beyond paths lined with lush bamboo lies the sacred stillness of temples and pagodas. Mossy stone steps made me slow my pace and tread more carefully. While I am not especially drawn to pilgrimages, I still love walking along those quiet, narrow paths in the early morning, when the sunlight is still soft, and the mist has not fully lifted. The cool freshness of the forest mingles with the faint scent of incense, offering the soul a calm, steady place to rest.
People often think that sitting at a café or standing on a balcony watching the clouds is enough to understand Tam Dao and its unhurried way of life. Yet that is only one small part of this mountain town’s character. Venture a little farther, and nature opens up: trekking trails emerge, forests stretch wide and green, waterfalls and streams come alive, and birdsong breaks through the silence. Slowness here does not mean stillness. Instead, it lies in nature’s quiet movements – leaves trembling in the wind, water slipping over rocks, or the swift call of a bird fading into the forest. These subtle sounds and motions are what make Tam Dao feel quietly alive.
Gentle forest creatures
Amid the greenery of Tam Dao National Park lies the Vietnam Bear Rescue Centre, where rescued bears are cared for, rehabilitated, and guided toward a safer life. Visiting the center added a deeper sense of meaning to my restful trip. After long and difficult journeys, the bears at this center begin a new chapter, climbing, playing, and foraging in a semi-natural environment. Years of captivity and bile extraction make every step, roll in the grass, and stretch in the sunlight a sign of regained freedom. The caretakers, who affectionately call each bear by name, showed me how a community can help heal the deep wounds these animals have endured. A journey to the mountains became more than an escape from the heat – it was a reminder to view nature with greater responsibility.
Tam Dao’s cuisine also broadened my perspective. I had never found mountain food especially memorable, since many dishes share flavors with other upland regions. But at a mushroom farm like Mufa, the story starts differently – with the way local ingredients are cultivated and brought to the table. Their farm-to-table model offered a richer experience, helping me better understand how ingredients are grown, chosen, and combined. The chef prepared mushrooms I had picked myself, serving them with chayote shoots, chayote fruit, tea leaves, and other local produce. As well as being something to taste, the meal was a way to experience the region’s climate, soil, and highland way of life.
Through the dining room’s wide glass windows, which opened directly onto the mountain range, I watched clouds drift across the valley as I savored light, delicate dishes, and this town’s slow pace of life.
A quiet, green, and gentle Tam Dao has stayed with me ever since.
