Simple grace

11/08/2021
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Que Chi

Around the world, people associate Vietnamese women with áo dài tunics and conical hats. Workshops in the North, Centre andSouth specialise in making these hats, which often feature local variations. A famous village for conical hats in the northern delta is Chuong Village in Thanh Oai District, just 40km from central Hanoi.

“Whoever wants to eat white rice and catfish
And wear a fine leafy hat should come to Chuong Village”

Người dân làng Chuông đang tận dụng nắng để phơi lá cọ khô dùng làm nguyên liệu sản xuất nón lá

People in Chuong Village have performed this traditional craft for over 300 years. long ago, the versatile craftsmen of ChuongVillage made conical hats for empresses and princesses. Nowadays, while conical hats are rare in Vietnam’s big cities, they remainimportant possessions for rural women

Wearing a leafy hat from Chuong Village
To go into the fields, schools, markets and poems Keeping sunlight and rain from our feet
Flat or tipped, their love is impossible to fathom”

          – Excerpt from “Leaf Hats of Chuong Village – Hoang Cam Thach

Phụ nữ làng Chuông ngồi quây quản bên hiên nhà để sơ chế lá lụi cho công đoạn lợp nón lá truyền thống
Những chiếc nón lá trắng tinh được người thợ làng Chuông xếp ngăn nắp sau khi đã hoàn tất các công đoạn thủ công

In Chuong Village, front yards are piled with white hats and materials. Those who wish to buy hats should not miss the markets that take place on the 4th, 10th, 14th, 20th, 24th and 30th days of each lunar month. These unique markets continue today and offer only traditional wares made in the village. Visitors will see local women selling heaps of hats while working on new ones. Hat-making suppliesare also sold in the market and include moulds, steel strings and thread.

While the hats appear simple, they contain a variety of material and involve many steps. Hat-makers crinkle the palm leaves in sand, dry them, sort them and iron them. The ironed leaves are placed on a mould. Hat-makers in Chuong Village make the hat’s frame with 16 circular rings from the tip to the brim. These rings make the hats solid and durable.

Cụ già làng Chuông khéo léo uốn nắn những thanh tre làm vành nón để tạo nên khung xương vững chãi cho chiếc nón
Nghệ nhân cao tuổi làng Chuông đang tỉ mỉ khâu nón lá với những đường chỉ đều tăm tắp và chắc chắn

The circular frames are made using bamboo rings. The joints are well hidden. Sewing on the leaves is the last and most difficult step since it is easy to tear the leaves. The stitches must be straight and even inside and out. More sophisticated hats are decorated on the underside with floral patterns made with coloured paper or thread. To finish the hat, a soft white chinstrap is added to accentuate the wearer’s feminine beauty.

Quang cảnh sầm uất tại một phiên chợ nón truyền thống nổi tiếng ở làng Chuông

Older people in Chuong Village pass their skills down to the youngsters. Many little girls go to the market and help their mothers to sew and sell hats. each hat is a token of the villagers’ affection for their hereditary craft. Chuong villagers are proud to welcome foreign and domestic visitors. A conical leaf hat from Chuong village is an iconic gift from Vietnam.

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