Wind Wander
Escape the ordinary on a trek up Mount Samu in the Ta Xua Nature Reserve in Vietnam’s rugged Northwest.
Situated on the border between Son La and Lao Cai, Samu Peak rises to 2,756 meters within the special-use forest of the Ta Xua Nature Reserve. Wrapped in mist year-round, the trees are cloaked in thick layers of moss, creating a dark, mystical atmosphere that draws trekking enthusiasts from far and wide.
Today, there are several routes leading to the summit from both Son La and Lao Cai. Most follow trails originally opened by locals. Unless one is familiar with the terrain, it is easy to get lost without a guide. I chose the route from Xim Vang Village (Xim Vang Commune, Son La). This path is relatively short with a moderate incline. The small village lies about 20 kilometers from Ta Xua, where terraced rice fields stretch halfway up the mountains, and H’Mong houses nestle beneath peach and plum trees. In spring, the landscape blooms like a garden in the clouds.
The ascent to Samu begins along a narrow path scented with damp earth at the edge of the village. The forest is dense and deep, with rich vegetation. Wildflowers bloom in shades of purple and white among dew-covered shrubs, while wild fruits and mushrooms appear along the trail. Looking up, only the interwoven branches of ancient trees are visible, blocking most of the sky. Thin threads of sunlight filter through.
Higher up, the air chills and mist thickens until the person ahead blurs from view. Samu’s forest feels mysterious and solemn. Mossy trunks, rain-heavy ferns, and murmuring streams give the sense that the mountain is breathing. Humans seem small and hidden in the deep greenery.
After passing a tall waterfall and a stretch of large chestnut trees, I reached a rest hut tucked behind a wind-sheltered ridge. The area is scattered with pale rocks and exposed to strong winds, with few tall trees for protection – only clusters of hardy shrubs clinging to the slopes. From here, the summit of Samu is about a 30-minute climb. The hut also offers wide views, making it a perfect place to watch sunrise and sunset. On lucky days, trekkers may observe a sea of clouds rolling just beside the shelter.
Our final ascent began shortly after sunrise. I felt as though I had stepped into a fairytale landscape, where moss and leaves merged with drifting mist. At this altitude, tree trunks twist into unusual shapes as they lean toward the light, while thick moss adds an almost surreal beauty. Occasionally, the mist parts and sunlight pierces the forest’s canopy, illuminating the warm, golden-brown hues of moss, the deep greens of leaves, and the bright colors of hikers’ jackets. Light and shadow weave together like a living painting.
From the summit of Samu, several famous peaks can be seen in the distance, including Ta Chi Nhu and Phu Sa Phin. After taking a few photographs, my guide and I began our descent on a different route, leaving the summit and heading toward Song Chong Village (Xim Vang Commune, Son La). We crossed three smaller ridges before reaching the trail that led us down toward the village. Along the way, the forest closed around us like walls of green enchantment, and the thick carpets of moss beneath our feet softened each step until we forgot our fatigue.
As we emerged from the hillside forest, a concrete road appeared below – a quiet sign of returning to everyday life. Looking back, there remained only green mountains, white clouds, the silent ancient forest, and an enduring reverence for nature. Many people say Samu is not a mountain you visit only once. Perhaps that is true since it hides countless wonders still waiting to be discovered.
