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Vuong Loc
From my very first visit, Ha Giang, the northernmost part of Vietnam, impressed me with its stunning mountainous beauty. During this trip, I had the chance to experience the scenery and cultural imprints of Dao villages in the Tay Con Linh mountain range.
The Tay Con Linh Nature Reserve spans Ha Giang City and two districts: Vi Xuyen and Hoang Su Phi. Due to its rugged terrain and relative inaccessibility, this reserve still retains pristine forests with diverse and rare vegetation. Located at an altitude of nearly 1,000 meters on a peak in the Tay Con Linh range in Vi Xuyen district, Xa Phin village is home to ethnic Dao people whose roofs are covered in green moss. The trekking community calls Xa Phin the “moss village”. The high altitude climate has caused thick layers of moss to grow on the palm leaf roofs of local stilt houses.
To reach this unique village requires a difficult journey. The road to the village stretches for 10km over a mountain pass and presents a memorable challenge. The locals told my group that this road is much easier to navigate than it used to be. We carefully maneuvered past continuous hairpin bends.
The winding road up to Tay Con Linh Peak revealed majestic scenes of Ha Giang’s highlands, where the mountains meet the sky and embrace a peaceful green landscape. The loveliest time to be here might be in the autumn, when the rice ripens, forming golden terraced fields that perch precariously on the mountainsides. Each twist in the road revealed breathtaking distant vistas.
Upon reaching the “moss village” of Xa Phin from the mountain peak, I gazed out over a vast landscape of mountains and forests. Travelers are captivated by the scenery and the climate, with its cool autumn breezes and golden sunlight. The moss-covered roofs resemble green mushrooms hidden among the village and the fields.
During the harvest season at the end of October, Dao people in Tay Con Linh celebrate the Golden Season Festival to rejoice in a bountiful harvest, pray for favorable weather, and share their joy. If you visit during this festival, you can experience the local customs and explore the traditional culture through the villagers’ attire, musical instruments, and various rituals and performances. Common activities during the Golden Season Festival include the cap sac ceremony to mark young men’s physical and spiritual maturity, rice harvesting competitions, traditional cooking contests, and pole climbing contests.
Despite the many hardships faced by Dao people living in the highlands of Tay Con Linh, their spirits remain cheerful, and they warmly welcome visitors. In recent years, local authorities have promoted tourism and the culture of local Dao people through festivals. This provides an opportunity for visitors from all over the country to visit and experience their way of life, thereby improving the locals’ incomes and ensuring a prosperous and happy life.
