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Story: Nguyen Hoai Bao
Photos: Thuan Vo, Toby Trung
Rising in the far north of Vietnam, the Hoang Lien Son range stretches across Lao Cai province, crowned by Mount Fansipan (3,143 m) – the “Roof of Indochina.” Mount Fansipan lies within Hoang Lien National Park, a sanctuary of montane biodiversity and a stronghold of Vietnam’s high-elevation forests.
The park spans a striking range of habitats: lush lower montane evergreen forest below 1,800 m; dense upper montane forest from 1,800–2,500 m; rhododendron stands between 2,500–2,800 m; and, above 2,800 m, windswept ridges cloaked in dwarf bamboo. Recognized as an Important Bird Area (IBA) of global significance, Hoang Lien shelters an exceptional diversity of restricted-range and globally threatened species.
For birdwatchers, the allure is unmistakable. Fansipan offers Vietnam’s best opportunity to encounter Eastern Himalayan species, including over eight species of laughing thrush. Steep trails begin at O Quy Ho Pass (1,900 m) and ascend toward the summit, with camping spots at 2,200 m and 2,800 m. Along the way, large mixed flocks move noisily through the moss-draped canopy.
Recent tours have yielded unforgettable sightings: the Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Golden Parrotbill, and delicate Tonkin (White-browed) Fulvetta near the summit; the elusive Pale-throated Wren-Babbler stirring in dense undergrowth; and lively flocks of Spectacled Barwing, Vinous-throated Parrotbill, and Crested Finchbill enlivening the mid-altitude forests.
Fansipan boasts more dazzling treasures: the jewel-like Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, flamboyant Scarlet-faced Liocichla, boldly patterned Red-tailed Minla, and striking Darjeeling Woodpecker. On the forest floor, the calls of Rufous-throated Partridges echo through the undergrowth, and on rare occasions, the magnificent Temminck’s Tragopan appears – an unforgettable sight. Tiny sprites like the Black-throated Bushtit add more delight for birdwatchers.
Each encounter is more than a tick on a checklist. It’s a glimpse into the rugged mountains that form the heart of Vietnam.
A birding tour to the misty summit
On a crisp spring morning, we boarded the cable car that carries visitors almost to the summit of Mount Fansipan. The ride was breathtaking, sweeping us over valleys of terraced fields and forests swathed in clouds. At the top, the air thinned and the wind rose, but the mountains revealed their secrets: a pair of Black-faced Laughingthrushes gathering nesting material, a flurry of Stripe-throated Yuhinas swirling around us, joined by Bar-throated Minlas and a surprise Crested Finchbill.
The next day, we traded altitude for intimacy, following the foothill trails in quiet anticipation. Then came a soft, insistent, almost teasing song – the call of the Pale-throated Wren-Babbler, one of Fansipan’s most elusive species. We waited, breath held, until a tiny shadow flitted into view. For many of us, that fleeting moment was worth the entire journey.
Back in Sapa, we strolled through the Ham Rong Gardens, where more delights appeared: flocks of Vinous-throated Parrotbills, the crimson flash of a Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, and the clear whistle of a Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler.
The birds on Mount Fansipan aren’t abundant or easily sighted. Because of this, each encounter is a precious gift to treasure.
