Story: Huynh Phuong
Photos: An Tran

Discover the rustic charm of a special market in Vi Thanh, Hau Giang.

A wealth of local products are sold at the “Squatting Market”

A unique market

In the Mekong Delta, there’s a market known as the “Squatting Market”, located on Nguyen Van Troi Street, Ward 3, in Vi Thanh, Hau Giang. This is one of the most unique agricultural markets in Vietnam today.

Mr. An Tran, a local resident, explained that the market earned its colloquial and rustic name because traders often squat or sit on small chairs, arranging their goods within an area of about 2 to 4 square meters. From a bird’s-eye view, you can see the traders sitting next to each other in rows, with pathways weaving between them for customers, all within a total area of about 700 square meters. The atmosphere is bustling. Despite its name, the “Squatting Market” operates in a very orderly manner, with neatly organized spaces and goods arranged by category, contributing to a relaxed atmosphere for both buyers and sellers.

A wealth of local products are sold at the “Squatting Market”

A country flavor

Throughout history, Vi Thanh has been linked to two strategic waterways: the Cai Lon River, leading to the western sea, and the Xa No kinh xang – a local term for the canal that links the Can Tho River and the Hau River to the East Sea. The natural conditions and river systems have supported the farming of rice and other agricultural products.

A “rural market in the heart of the city” was established in 2010, when the town of Vi Thanh received official city status. This market specializes in local seasonal agricultural products. It opens at midnight and winds down around 10 a.m., with peak hours from about 5 to 9 in the morning. Notably, the traders are genuine farmers who bring their homegrown products to sell in the market.

First-time visitors to this rural market will be amazed by the fresh and distinctive products from the Mekong Delta’s river region: lively jumping shrimp, wriggling strings of frogs, snakehead fish, climbing perch in basins, and an assortment of field greens, including dimocarpus longan, coccinia grandis leaves, malabar spinach, pennywort, mustard greens, amaranth, and more, all naturally-grown. The diverse vegetables include bunches of water spinach, water mimosa, mustard greens, brassica, yellow squash flowers, sesbania grandiflora, carrots, kohlrabi, potatoes, and more.

Prices at this market are generally lower than elsewhere. Housewives save money on family meals by shopping at the “Squatting Market”, while sourcing ingredients for many rustic dishes like sour shrimp soup with sesbania grandiflora, pepper braised anabas, frog stew with bananas and beans, etc. In addition to agricultural products, many traditional snacks are on offer, including  sweet puddings, sticky rice, honeycomb cake, banana cake, and silkworm cake. All of these treats are homemade by locals.

The market is colorful when viewed from above

Traditional ao ba ba

Market-goers will recognize the friendly connections between buyers and sellers. Traders remember their regular customers and know their names and preferences. If they have special products, traders will save them for their regulars. One distinctive feature of the “Squatting Market” is that women dress in in neat ao ba ba tunics, adding a charming touch to the market and impressing visitors. The local government has promoted the wearing of ao ba ba at this market to promote the local cultural identity and turn the market into a festival. The Hau Giang Ao Ba Ba Festival was successfully held for the first time in early October 2023. The female traders at the “Squatting Market” all wear the traditional attire of Southern Vietnamese women, creating a vibrant and attractive market atmosphere that enhances the scene’s folk beauty amidst modern life.

When visiting Vi Thanh, tourists should wake up early to visit the “Squatting Market”. This is a great way to explore the local culture, buy fresh agricultural products, and fall in love with the land of Hau Giang.