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Story: Huong Quynh
Photos: Bui Van Hai
Over 20 years ago, I traveled from the North to the South, arriving on Phu Quoc, or “Pearl Island”, excited to set foot on its long stretches of white sandy beaches. Back then, Truong Beach and Dai Beach retained their natural beauty with endless sandy shores and rows of green casuarina and coconut trees. True to its name, Sao Beach (aka Star Beach), had countless five-pointed starfish gently swaying in the clear waves.
Even though I have returned to Phu Quoc many times and witnessed its transformation into a tourism and resort center, I always long to find memories of this pristine island with beaches full of starfish visible beneath the water. Nowadays, Sao Beach still has white sand and clear blue waves. The beach is bustling with tourists and the starfish are nowhere to be seen. Fortunately, at Ham Rong Cape in the north of the island, starfish seemed to await my return to the past, with this spot offering pristine and heart-stirring beauty. Often mentioned on travel forums, this is a popular place for watching gentle and romantic sunsets.
To reach Ham Rong Cape, we took a taxi heading north to Rach Vem. Some sections of the road were under construction, creating a dusty scene. The closer we got to Rach Vem fishing village, the rougher the road became. Here it was, the red dirt road from my memories, back when I first set foot on the island. On both sides of the road, tall grass and vibrant bougainvillea bushes shone in the sunlight, with small, charming houses peeking through.
From the fishing village, we boarded a small boat and sped over the sea to Ham Rong Cape. The sky of my dreams truly appeared before my eyes, over a deep blue sea lit by bright sunshine. Stepping into the water, I immediately encountered red starfish lazily playing with the waves and sand. Knowing we loved to take photos, the young boatman helped us to capture countless shots. The clear seawater allowed us to admire the red starfish and enjoy swimming to our heart’s content. We treated the starfish as “precious creatures”, only observing them without picking them up. Any starfish washed ashore by the waves were immediately “rescued” and returned to the sea.
Ham Rong Cape is surrounded by lush primary forest, making the air fresh and cool. Resting on the shore under the shade of the trees, we had to keep an eye on some mischievous monkeys to prevent them from stealing our belongings. For those who prefer to stay active, renting a stand-up paddleboard to paddle out to sea is an option. However, simply sitting and watching the sea and the starfish, while breathing in the sea air, made each moment blissful.
As the sun began to fade, we climbed onto a wooden bridge to gaze at the vast waves and wait for the sunset. The changing sunlight created a spectacular light show, with colors ranging from pink to orange, glorious red, and finally romantic purple. The water shimmered like silver, and the gentle waves in the distance brought a sense of peace, accompanied only by the cool breeze and our wandering souls.
Releasing my dreams into the sky and sea, I made a wish that the starfish will remain at Ham Rong Cape, which will still be pristine and peaceful upon my return.
