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Nhi Dang
Vietnam’s Northwest Highlands draw travelers seeking mountain views, winding trails, and a sense of freedom
Just the thought of Vietnam’s Northwest fills lovers of exciting motorbike rides with love and nostalgia. At harvest time, the majestic Northwest dons a spectacular honey-colored coat and invites adventurous souls to visit.
This mountainous land retains its authentic beauty, with astonishing landscapes and friendly locals. After flying to Hanoi from Ho Chi Minh City, we rented a motorbike, loaded our essential gear, and set off. Heart dancing with joy, I could not wait any longer, knowing I was en route to discovering new adventures in the Northwest.
From Tu Le to Mu Cang Chai
We spent three days exploring the rice fields of Tu Le from misty dawn to hazy twilight. Sometimes, we wandered onto hilltops to watch the sunrise. Other times, we relaxed by streams, watching village kids play in the crystal clear water. In Tu Le, you can visit Lim Thai and Lim Mong villages, where distinctive ethnic stilt houses are scattered on both sides of the road.
In late September, the locals begin to burn the fields, creating unforgettable foggy afternoons with sky-high pillars of smoke. The scent of burnt crops and smoke reminded me of the farmers’ sweat and the kids’ playing freely.
In the following days, I edged along trails to discover the terraced fields of Mu Cang Chai. It was the peak season for young trekkers, drawn by the fields of gold, especially the famed Sticky Rice Tray Hill, named for its resemblance to this traditional dish. Visitors who spend time studying maps and exploring are rewarded with new sites and interesting stories.
On the last day, while driving, I saw many children wearing masks and holding lanterns. Recalling that it was the Mid-Autumn Festival, I immediately decided to join them. Watching happy children dance and sing reminded me of my wonderful childhood.
Touring the bends of Sapa – Bac Ha – Si Ma Cai – Phung village
On the seventh day, we rode the cloudy route to Sapa. The glowing afternoon light and a cup of steaming hot tea on top of O Quy Ho Pass left me strangely euphoric. This pass is definitely the most awe-inspiring, even compared to the famed Happy Road in Ma Pi Leng – Ha Giang.
As our tires rolled onward to Bac Ha – Si Ma Cai, we stopped several times to rest for 15 or 20 minutes in grassy green fields. Upon arriving in Si Ma Cai, the weather suddenly changed. A big storm with strong gusts blew all the dry leaves over the pavements. Trying to shelter beneath a tiny flapping raincoat, I giggled and thought: we’ve truly experienced all kinds of weather!
After breezing through many Northwestern markets, I was deeply impressed by Can Cau Market, an open-air market in the Si Ma Cai border area. Bursting with vibrant colors, this market showcases the authentic beauty of the Highlands in an area still largely untouched by tourism and construction projects. Held every Saturday, Can Cau Market draws Hmong, Dao, and Tay people from Can Cau, Lu Than (Si Ma Cai) and Lung Phinh (Bac Ha) to buy and sell goods. Coming to the market, villagers bring many goods, including produce, liquor, brocade clothes, silver jewelry, and even domestic animals like buffaloes, horses, dogs, and cats.
Saying goodbye to Si Ma Cai, our group continued to Hoang Su Phi, choosing to rest in Phung Village when the sun was high in the sky. Along with terraced fields and stilt houses, picturesque Phung Village charmed us with the sight of La Chi children plucking flowers along a fence, smiling shyly with their hands full of wild daisies.
I could never forget waking early in a wooden shed, roused by the irresistible smell of stir-fried chayote squash and the sounds of chickens stirring in straw, amidst the echoes of villagers calling each other to the fields.
After returning home to city life, it took me a while to readapt, as my heart lingered in the misty mornings in the mountains. Once in a while, traveling leads us to see life in its pure form. I’m grateful for these journeys of self-discovery, which allow me to live and stay true to who I really am.
