Story: Ngo Quang Minh
Photos: Dan Khoi

As the seasons change, discover the fairytale beauty of the Long Coc tea hills.

An aerial view of Long Coc

The season for “hunting clouds” in the autumn skies of the North has begun, reminding me that it’s time for a rendezvous with the undulating hills of the midlands, which mysteriously appear and vanish in the morning mist. Once again, people are talking about the picturesque highlands, where  romantic landscapes nestle in the heart of Phu Tho, not far from Hanoi. Many compliments have been heaped upon Long Coc, but one must directly experience the ethereal tranquility of its morning light to truly appreciate the sublime beauty of one of Vietnam’s most exquisite tea hills.

Spanning more than 10,000 square meters, the expansive Long Coc tea hills are situated in Long Coc commune, Tan Son district, Phu Tho province, 70 kilometers southwest of Viet Tri city’s center, and only about a two-hour drive from Hanoi. This is an ideal distance for a weekend camping trip, allowing you to admire both the sunset and sunrise.

Visitors to Long Coc unanimously agree that this idyllic place resembles “a miniature Halong Bay on land”, with hundreds of hills shaped like upturned bowls that stretch to the horizon. Viewed from the side, Long Coc’s hills undulate like waves, whereas seen from above, its evenly green fields resemble the lines on a giant’s fingers. The green of the tea bushes blends with the morning mist amidst the vast mountains, creating a unique optical effect. The scene is especially splendid when the night’s mist lingers in clumps of bushes, condensing on the tea leaves and buds before the gentle morning sun has dispelled the characteristic chill of the mountains at dawn.

Only two hours from Hanoi, the area is popular with campers

Some tea hills are perfect for overnight camping, allowing visitors to leisurely gaze at the star-studded sky, while slowly savoring the sunrise as it illuminates this tea oasis. While Sapa and Dalat are famous misty mountain towns, and Thai Nguyen and Moc Chau are well-known for their vast, verdant tea hills, Long Coc has both of these characteristics. This place is beautiful in every season; the atmosphere is always fresh and utterly calm. There are no car horns, no haze of dust, and no man-made structures to block your view. Whether you are coming from afar or looking for a familiar yet exotic getaway, Long Coc is a destination worth visiting. In recent years, Long Coc has become a hot spot whenever the seasons change, thanks to its fairytale scenery, ideal for taking photos and shooting videos with drones.

Long Coc is more than just a scenic stopover! Most residents in the mountainous district of Tan Son belong to the Muong ethnic group, who mainly earn their living by growing and processing tea. The shimmering tea hills shown in photos are, in reality, a testament to their meticulous care and the application of scientific tea-production methods. Over the past decade, the quality of tea from Long Coc has significantly improved, becoming a key factor in helping local people to escape poverty. According to local statistics, there are nearly 700 hectares of tea bushes ready for harvesting, yielding high productivity and providing substantial economic benefits to local households. In addition to preserving the landscape for eco-tourism, Long Coc places great emphasis on tea cultivation and care, in order to maintain this region’s unique economic advantages.

Anyone who has had the chance to visit ancestral tea plantations in China, Taiwan, and Sri Lanka will undoubtedly cherish and take pride in the “unpolished gem” of Long Coc. It is entirely reasonable to hope that the tea industry here will elevate Vietnam’s reputation to be on par with those spectacular landscapes and top-quality teas of international caliber.

One of the first names that comes to mind when mentioning this region’s tea is the Bat Tien Long Coc variety. These tea leaves are used to produce Oolong tea, originally from Taiwan. This variety was brought to Phu Tho over two decades ago. Thanks to meticulous care and Long Coc’s fertile soil, a unique product has been created with a clear green hue, a refreshing taste, and a fragrant and delicious flavor, without the characteristic astringent taste found in many other teas.

Bat Tien Long Coc tea bushes have sparse branch density, an average height, and a wide canopy that blankets the crescent-shaped hills. The locals have meticulously pruned each row and tea bush, interspersing a few tall trees on every hilltop as subtle highlights. They’ve also added winding footpaths for convenience of movement, inadvertently creating charming patterns on this lush green carpet. The tea hills quietly absorb the essence of the earth and sky, inspiring visitors to sing their praises, snap beautiful photos, and feel nostalgic for the highlands.

The harmony between the natural landscape and the diligent hands of generations of locals has woven an enthralling picture in Long Coc. If you hear someone excitedly describe watching mists clear in the highlands, discovering a place as beautiful as a fairytale, being enraptured by pure green hues, and savoring the flavor of local tea, you can be sure they’ve had the pleasure of visiting Long Coc in Phu Tho.