Story: Lam Anh
Photos: Nguyen Hai

The 3-day, 2-night trek to conquer Pa Thien and Voi Mep – two of the highest peaks in Quang Tri province- felt like an unforgettable gift from heaven and earth.

When people speak of Quang Tri, they often recall the “land of fire,” famed for its wartime relics: the Quang Tri Ancient Citadel, the 17th Parallel, the Vinh Moc Tunnels, and the Truong Son National Cemetery. Yet beyond these solemn memories lies another Quang Tri – a region of deep, majestic old-growth forests in the Western Truong Son Range, where the wind carries the whisper of invitation, day and night.

Moss-covered stone slabs layered like steps lead into the mystical forest

Pa Thien and Voi Mep, rising 1,625 m and 1,707 m respectively, stand as twin peaks within the special-use forest zone of Quang Tri province. Our expedition began at Pin hamlet, Nguon Rao–Pin village (Huong Phung commune), about 40 km from Khe Sanh. From the foothills, the ascent is steep, the trail winding and scattered with jagged rocks. The late autumn sun had softened, yet the relentless ascent still drained our strength. Words of encouragement – “Just a little further, it gets easier in the forest!” – sounded like mere pleasantries, but soon proved true.

Once we entered the primary forest, the air turned cool and fragrant. Sweetgum, wild pineapple, Ngoc Linh ginseng, wild orchids, and many plants unknown to us lined the path. The thick layer of dry leaves underfoot felt as soft as a carpet, while the high canopy swayed gently, shielding us from the sun and from passing jungle showers that left only a few silvery drops on our sleeves. At times, the slopes grew so steep that the Van Kieu porters called them “four-legged climbs”: passable only by gripping roots and rocks. Still, our group slowly pressed on. Amid the vast green, flashes of crimson appeared: red maple leaves, heralds of the approaching autumn, when the entire Truong Son Range glows with fiery foliage. The very thought of this crimson forest stirs the heart of any lover of nature and art.

The national flag waves proudly amid the mountains and forests

Just as the strain of the climb began to weigh on us, we reached Pa Thien Stream. Here, white water flows in silken strands, glimmering with rainbow light under the sun. We paused only briefly, soaking our feet in the cool current – and with that, all fatigue seemed to vanish. This felt like proof that nature heals in quiet, wondrous ways. The boulders along the stream were coated in lush moss, thick and vivid green. Strangely, the moss was not slippery but seemed to grip the soles of our boots, lending friction and steadying our footsteps as we pressed on toward our campsite.

After a night’s rest in the forest, we set out to conquer the twin peaks of Pa Thien and Voi Mep. Though only 250 meters apart as the crow flies, the three-kilometer trail between the summits took nearly two hours to cross. In the Van Kieu language, Pa Thien means “father of the sky,” a name that reflects the locals’ gratitude for its blessings, since abundant medicinal herbs grow on this mountain. Voi Mep, meaning “resting elephant,” owes its name to its silhouette, which resembles a tired elephant reclining with its ears spread wide and trunk extended.

While the path to Pa Thien winds through shrubs, the trail to Voi Mep cuts across dense bamboo forest, the stems crisscrossing and rising to chest height, forcing trekkers to push their way through. The Truong Son Range is not only green with life but also marked by the scars of a fiery past. Along the way, we passed the remnants of three downed aircraft. Even on Voi Mep itself, a patch of land remains barren where aviation fuel was once spilled, untouched by vegetation despite the passing years. Standing on this threshold between past and present, we felt the sacredness of peace more deeply. Upon touching the 1,707-meter marker at Voi Mep’s summit and watching the national flag ripple against the blue sky, the Nguon Rao River winding below, and wind turbines gleaming in the sun, everyone was overcome with quiet emotion.

The Quang Tri Wind Farm seen from the summit of Pa Thien

Every journey into nature is unforgettable, for one never knows what rare gifts the land and sky will offer. On this trip, it was the quiet grace of dawn – watching a sea of clouds blush pink from Pa Thien’s peak. It was sipping tea steeped in early morning dew, said to be the “king’s tea,” first planted by King Ham Nghi’s soldiers as they fled French pursuit. It was stringing hammocks from trees in the Truong Son forest, drifting to sleep to the murmur of the stream and the glow of moonlight, then waking to birdcalls at dawn and the surprise of peach blossoms blooming out of season.

Walking through the primary forest, we saw harmony everywhere, each plant and creature in its own rightful place. Even a fallen, rotting log was left untouched, becoming shelter or returning its strength to the soil. We felt deep gratitude for the staff of the Quang Tri Special-Use Forest Management Board and for the Van Kieu people, whose cooperation and pure, untainted hearts help keep these forests forever green.

Nature is not merely a destination – it is a home to which we return. The journey to Pa Thien and Voi Mep is far from easy, yet it leaves each traveler with lasting memories of the earth and sky’s quiet splendor, and a longing to return to the green wilds of Quang Tri.