Vinh Dav

Ha Giang’s rocky terrain makes its winters harsh and cold. When it starts to drizzle, a quiet transformation begins, signaling winter’s end. The borderland undergoes a remarkable change, shedding its barren appearance and bursting into vibrant, life-filled beauty.

Pho Cao Valley in Dong Van District

Spring was in the air when we began our journey. We started at Milestone Zero, following the clear Mien River to Tung Vai commune via the Quyet Tien turnoff, where ancient plum trees stand, before reaching Heaven’s Gate in Quan Ba. Though not among Ha Giang’s highest points, the distinctive topography of Heaven’s Gate often attracts clouds, creating morning mist.

Even when the sky clears in Can Ty, Heaven’s Gate remains shrouded in clouds when viewed from afar. Perhaps this is how it earned its celestial name. Lost in thought, we soon reached Can Ty Slope, where we were faced with a choice: the shorter direct road to Lao and Chai, which would save time, or the old route. All but forgotten since the new shortcut was built, the old route is more challenging, passing through windswept hills covered in pine trees and lush grasslands, like small prairies with panoramic views. I was moved by the sight of scattered peach trees blooming beside old houses.

The porch of a walled house in Lung Cu, Dong Van district

Continuing along National Highway 4C, as the majestic mountain peaks surrounding Tham Ma Slope came into view, we reached the turn-off to Van Chai commune, home to Sao Ha village – an oasis in a bowl of mountains. Protected by the mountains, which retain moisture and cool air, vegetation thrives here. A lush bamboo forest leads to a residential area where traditional tiled houses intermingle with blooming peach trees.

Beyond Tham Ma Slope lies what’s considered Ha Giang’s “peach blossom capital”. Along both sides of the National Highway, rows of peach trees stretch continuously from central Pho Cao commune to the center of Sung La commune. This is a great place to stop, as many flower-viewing spots lie within a few kilometers. Pho Bang offers bustling border-town life, Lao Xa is brilliant with a mix of peach, plum, and canola flowers, and peaceful Sang Tung lies hidden behind endless rocky mountain ranges.

The winding road led us to Sa Phin commune, passing snow-white plum trees in the valley, to the junction leading to Lung Cu. Though fewer in number, peach and plum blossoms still peek through small villages in Lung Tao and Ma Le when viewed from above. These colors intensify as Lung Cu appears. Here, flowers don’t grow on rocks but in people’s front yards and gardens in Lo Lo Chai, Then Pa, and Ta Gia Khau. Local authorities and residents are working to preserve local attractions by protecting existing peach trees and planting more, the signature flower of Ha Giang’s spring.

There is more to spring in Ha Giang than flowers; it’s also a season of vibrant markets and festive celebrations. Smiling adults and children in colorful traditional attire hurry along paths toward commune centers. Cheerful calls echo through villages and mountains. In high spirits, our return journey to Dong Van town and through Ma Pi Leng Pass to Meo Vac seemed shorter. We briefly stopped at a market where some Mong men warmly offered us rice wine. This spirit warmed us, as did the rustic hospitality of the local people.

Regrettably, time constraints prevented us from continuing along the Mau Due – Du Gia route after passing through Lung Phin to Sung Trai and Mau Due. Early-blooming red cotton flowers illuminate the winding road across the mountain peaks. I longed to view the lush valleys and bubbling streams, hoping to confirm that Du Gia National Park remains as wild and majestic as ever.

The harsher Ha Giang’s winter, the more vibrant its spring blossoms. These flowers’ resilience and regenerative power symbolize the fierce vitality and strength of this region’s nature and local people. Tiny flower buds emerging from dry branches welcome a new year full of dreams and aspirations. For visitors like us, witnessing this spring transformation provides motivation and self-belief to embark on new journeys.