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Story: Huong Quynh
Photos: Lekima Hung
Discover majestic scenery and colorful markets in Binh Lieu, a mountainous district in Quang Ninh province.
Autumn scenery lures travelers to many regions when the leaves turn golden, merging with the sun as if coated with honey. However, there’s a distant frontier region where autumn brings blossoming reeds, draping the hills in a silky smooth white robe. This is Binh Lieu, a mountainous district in Quang Ninh province, which shares a border with China.
In the past, Binh Lieu was renowned among backpackers for its winding roads, which challenged drivers and tested the endurance of avid trekkers. In recent years, thanks to increasingly convenient transport routes, including highways and Vietnam Airlines flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Quang Ninh, tourists can easily access Binh Lieu to discover its majestic nature and landmarks. Noteworthy sites include the Dinosaur’s Spine, Khe Van Waterfall, Cao Xiem Peak, and various border markers.
It’s hard to choose the best season in which to visit because Binh Lieu is beautiful year-round. If you enjoy hiking through autumn scenery and admiring natural beauty in crisp weather, consider visiting between October and November. The predominant autumn color here isn’t gold but the pure white of countless reeds blooming over the undulating hillsides.
The most beautiful stretches of blossoming reeds can be found along the western border ring road heading toward Lang Son. The two most popular spots for sightseeing and photography are at the 1287 marker and on the trail to the 1305 marker, which passes along the legendary “Dinosaur’s Spine”, characterized by blossoming reed-covered slopes. Every visitor to Binh Lieu aims to visit these border markers, not only to enjoy spectacular views of white reed-covered paths but also to feel pride upon reaching the nation’s frontier. From these high vantage points, gazing down at the vast expanse of reeds, the hills of Binh Lieu appear blanketed in floating feathers. When gentle breezes sweep in, the reeds sway in graceful harmony. In this romantic setting, as you take a deep breath, fill your lungs, and spread your arms wide, it’s like being in a dream of poetry in motion. The most picturesque moments occur during sunrise and sunset. Binh Lieu is dreamy as the sun rises, its ethereal white blossoming reed-covered hills slowly coming into view. As the brilliant evening light stretches across the mountain range, Binh Lieu is especially radiant.
In Binh Lieu, visitors are not only captivated by the pristine natural beauty but also by the area’s fascinating culture. To experience daily life, visitors should stay in a homestay with local hosts. You’ll find stilt houses nestled amidst the mountains. Built from wood and different types of bamboo, these stilt homes are simple yet inviting. Guests are warmly welcomed by the hosts, served intriguing local delicacies, and even treated to traditional foot soaks and herbal baths.
Those who’ve visited Binh Lieu often share tales of its local markets. These mountain markets are unique cultural events, drawing visitors from the lowlands. These markets burst with color, akin to a flower garden, thanks to the traditional attire of market-goers from Dao Thanh Phan, San Chi, and Tay ethnic groups. While ethnic minority people only wear their traditional outfits during festivals and on special occasions in many other regions, in Binh Lieu, locals wear their traditional clothing for everyday activities. As such, a trip to the market allows visitors to identify people of different ethnicities based on their dresses, hats, and jewelry.
Binh Lieu Market is a place for buying, selling, and exchanging home-grown, home-made, and processed products, such as livestock, vegetables, and leaf-wrapped cakes; items found in the mountains and forests, like tobacco, orchids, different types of mushrooms, and bamboo shoots; and handcrafted items like clothes and jewelry.
Some women bring only a few bundles of vegetables picked from the forest or a few chicken eggs. For them, going to the market is not just about buying and selling but also a way to socialize and chat. Therefore, the market is bustling, filled with endless chatter and laughter. This atmosphere gave rise to the phrase “Going to play at the market”, for both locals and tourists from faraway.
Best of all, you can find gifts to take home, with visitors excited by local products like fresh bamboo shoots, edible ferns, powdered turmeric, bánh chưng cẩm (purple glutinous rice cakes), silver bracelets, brocade bags, and much more. A visit to a highland market is a chance to explore the area’s traditional culture.
With its impressive natural scenery and unique local lifestyle, Binh Lieu is an attractive destination for people who love to explore and experience highland culture.
