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Hai Piano Nguyen
Just 8km from Ba Ria Town on National Highway 51 lies a bridge that connects the mainland to Long Son Island. With its historic architecture and sedate pace of life, visiting Long Son is like stepping back in time.
Visitors eager to discover traditional southern Vietnamese architecture should head for the Mansion of Long Son, which was built by Mr. Le Van Muu, better known as Mr. Tran, in 1910. A follower of the Four Graces and Filial Piety Faith, Mr. Tran hailed from Bay Nui District in An Giang. As a young man Mr. Tran joined an uprising against the French under Commander Tran Van Thanh. After the uprising ended in failure, Mr. Tran and his entire family sought refuge in Nua Mountain and founded Ba Trao Hamlet, now Long Son Commune.
Mr. Tran dedicated the Mansion to Heaven, the Buddha, Fairies and Saints. The complex was restored in 1991 and recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Information as a Historical and Cultural Site that same year. The Mansion spans around 2ha and comprises a temple, an assembly house, a school, marketplace, Ghe Sam Preservation Hall and the Mausoleum of Mr. Tran. Most structures are built of tropical hardwoods.
The Mansion was modeled after traditional titular temples in the South characterized by long wings, wooden pillars and tiled roofs. Parallel sentences and gilded Chinese characters hang on the wooden pillars and beams. There are elaborate and sophisticated carvings of flowers and animals. The compound comprises five two-storey pavilions with wooden staircases and tiled roofs: the Forbidden Pavilion (Frontal Hall); Buddhist Pavilion (Main Hall); Heavenly Pavilion; Fairy Pavilion; and Extended Pavilion. They are connected by suspended wooden bridges. Behind the Main Hall lies the Nom album of Luc Van Tien the Hero sketched on glass.
Today, followers of Mr. Tran’s faith still wear black bà ba pants, walk barefoot and fix their hair into a bun worn at the nape. They are very hospitable. Visitors to the Mansion can enjoy signature foods of Long Son. The Mansion remains self sufficient. The locals farm rice, make salt, weave baskets and make furniture, etc. Before the Tet Holidays and major events, local women gather to make tét cakes, creating a lively ambience in the Mansion’s kitchens.
Despite the ups and downs of history, the compound and local way of life are well preserved. Mr. Tran’s followers believe in Humanity, Rituals, Politeness, Wisdom and Prestige, as shown in the Tale of Luc Van Tien. They believe in karma and compassion.
The founder, Mr. Le Van Muu, usually walked barefoot, hence his nickname Mr. Tran (Bare). He was a hard worker. His descendants and followers honor him on the Day of Mr. Tran’s Spirit (Lunar February 20) and Double Nine Day (Lunar September 9). On these days the Mansion of Long Son hosts huge festivals that attract tens of thousands of people, mainly from the Southwestern and Southeastern provinces.
On Lunar December 21, the island’s elders host a Calligraphy Ceremony for the Tet Holidays at the Mansion. Old men in black áo dài and headbands sit on mats and diligently write out meaningful messages. Their messages promote the fine deeds and filial piety of the Mansion’s community.
