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Story: Winlinh
Photos: Thanh The Vinh, Vu Minh Quan
Intruiging mountains and pristine lakes draw travelers to Cao Bang
In Cao Bang Province, there are many uniquely-shaped mountains that people call “Thung” or “Punctured” mountains. Surrounded by green valleys, these mountains are also called “Mat Than” (Angel Eye), and “Phja Piót” in the Tày language, which means “a hole piercing through the mountain”.
“Thung” mountains in the Hoa An, Quang Hoa, Trung Khanh… districts are all situated in the basin of the Cao Bang Geopark. These mountains are the result of tectonic shifts from millions of years ago. They consists of limestone pillars and pyramids.
Geologists have found fossils of ancient life forms such as crinoids and creatures in the Fusulinacea genera in limestone faultings dating back to the Bacsonian period. The mountains’ popular name – “Punctured” – stems from a cavity running through the formations like a hole drilled into its side. Other people compare these gaping holes to mysterious “eyes” in the mountain.
Not far from these “Thung” mountains lies the Thang Hen Lake complex with 36 natural freshwater lakes connected by underground caves. This cave system is behind the changes in Thang Hen Lake’s water levels – seasonally, or sometimes even within a matter of hours. In the spring, vibrant trees and flowers create scenes that enchant visitors sightseeing aboard boats. In the summertime, you can enjoy refreshing breezes and lush greenery on both sides of the lake. In the rainy season, when water levels rise, all 36 lakes overflow to create a single wide-ranging body of water. The glassy surface now resembles a mirror reflecting the gray mountain ranges. Ducks swim leisurely in the still waters, while buffaloes and cows graze on the riverbanks. In the dry season, the lakeside is adorned with yellow leaves and becomes even more romantic when the tree-marigolds are in full bloom. This is when the lake dries up, leaving behind a fresh layer of mud where short grass begins to take root. The water is shallow enough for locals to catch fish with their bare hands. Another highlight of the Thang Hen Lake complex is the low, 15-hectare wide Nam Tra Waterfall. Its cascades and winding streams flow into Nam Tra Lake like endless strands of silk.
Visitors to the “Thung” mountains can stay in traditional stilt houses at the Thang Hen Lake eco-tourism zone, or bring their own tents to camp in this peaceful valley. All it takes is a modest campsite with a few essentials to make for a memorable day trip. You should bring a thin blanket, a pillow, some instant food, or a grill if you would like to spend the night. During the day, you can tour the mountains, rivers, and lakes and take some stunning photos. You can also try kayaking along the calm waters of the lake complex, which is home to large lakes like Thang Hen and Nam Tra, as well as smaller ones such as Thang Vat, Thang Loong, and Na Ma. A kayak is a good way to explore the region’s diverse ecosystems. When night falls, the bright moon and twinkling stars are clearly visible in the sky. Friends may gather to listen to local legends and doze off in the middle of the tranquil forested mountains. Relaxing in pristine wilderness, you will feel a sense of peace and freedom as you melt into nature.
The most-visited “Thung” mountain is located in Quoc Toan commune, Quang Hoa district. To learn more about local life, you can take a 15-minute walk from this mountain to Ban Danh Village, which is home to indigenous Tay people. Guarded by stone fences emblematic of the Tay culture, this rustic village is filled with simple and approachable stilt houses. The people here lead a bucolic life, tending to crops and grazing cattle all year round. Descending into the valley, you can see ancient stone houses covered in the dust of time sheltered by the forest’s shade. Various indigenous trees like sugar palms, Burretiodendron hsienmu, and canariums bearing white and black fruit with a rich nutty flavor can vaguely be seen in the distance. Tourists with empty stomachs should seek out local specialties to fully experience not just the landscape but also the cuisine. Dishes range from fried Gam River fish, freshwater fish, and shrimp from Thang Hen Lake, to fried bee pupae with sour bamboo shoots, dạ hiến leaves, canarium sticky rice, black vermicelli, smoked sausages, fermented corn wine, mèn mén, and glutinous corn, just to name a few.
Standing near the mountain’s windswept “Angel Eye”, where lush moss, grass, and drifting clouds encircle the hole, you can see distant mountains undulating against endless blue skies, with a carpet of green grass and calm waters drifting below. Birds can be glimpsed flying back to their nests within the thriving bamboo groves. The cornfields are full of rustling leaves, and golden rice paddies wait for harvest. People carrying rice and straw back to their village are silhouetted against the sunset, their eyes glimmering with a simple and peaceful happiness.
