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Vinh Dav
Vietnam’s fourth-highest peak lures mountain climbers with diverse terrain and stunning views over the Northwestern mountains.
As the sun loses its harsh glare, the warm yellow hues of ripening fields gradually emerge on the terraced landscapes of the northern mountains, signaling the arrival of the harvest season. This is the time when mountain climbers prepare their gear for upcoming journeys. Ky Quan San, often called the ‘Paradise of White Clouds,’ stands as one of the most renowned peaks in the Northwestern mountains, celebrated for its grandeur, diverse terrain, and awe-inspiring vistas. This mountain beckons to climbers who are drawn to conquer heights.
Ky Quan San, also referred to as Bach Moc Luong Tu, is Vietnam’s fourth highest peak, soaring 3,046 meters above sea level, with a climbing difficulty rating of 4/5. The name Ky Quan San is shared with a quaint village nestled at the mountain’s base, belonging to Sang Ma Sao commune in Bat Xat district, Lao Cai province. The Ky Quan San mountain range straddles the border of Lao Cai and Lai Chau provinces, extending from Sin Suoi Ho commune in Phong Tho district, Lai Chau province, to Sang Ma Sao commune in Bat Xat district, Lao Cai province. This range merges with the Hoang Lien Son mountain range in the southeast, giving rise to lush green hills, pristine forests, numerous waterfalls, and some of Vietnam’s loftiest peaks.
The prime time to ascend Ky Quan San begins in September, when the climate is mild, the sun is gentle, and rainfall is scarce. The cooler months that follow are ideal for “cloud hunting.” This is also the season when maple leaves turn vibrant red throughout the forest, and green moss thrives on ancient trees and boulders, nourished by the humid winter fog. By March, the forest bursts into the vivid hues of blooming rhododendrons, with temperatures remaining moderate thanks to the final gusts of cold northern wind before the onset of summer.
The journey from the starting point in Sang Ma Sao commune to the mountain peak spans approximately 15 kilometers, traversing various terrains. It is no walk in the park for novices, but with diligent physical preparation, this expedition can be remarkably rewarding. Those who undertake the climb leave with indelible memories of forests cloaked in white fog, stretches of red maple leaves along the trail, crystalline streams, majestic cliffs of dizzying heights, and a tranquil slumber beneath a star-studded sky after a day of hard climbing.
We embarked on a trail that meandered through hillsides, bamboo forests, fruit orchards, and a relatively level, pristine forest until the gentle gurgle of streams reached our ears in the woods. The subsequent leg of the journey grew more challenging, with moss-covered, slippery rocks and continuous inclines, balanced by the untamed beauty of the virgin mountainous forest. In the distance, the imposing peak of Ky Quan San loomed over the magnificent mountain range, stretching across the sky.
Our initial destination was Mount Muoi, perched at an altitude of 2,100 meters, which also served as our rest stop for the night. Suddenly, darkness descended like a curtain. From our hut on Mount Muoi, a sky strewn with twinkling stars unfolded, with distant mountain peaks looming in the night. The ambiance was absolutely serene, and time seemed to drift, as if the world had momentarily paused.
At dawn the next morning, we were roused by a chorus of excited voices. Astonishingly, after just one night’s sleep, the scenery at 2,100 meters had transformed entirely. A sea of clouds enveloped us, pure white intermingled with golden rays from the rising sun.
Our journey pressed on toward the pinnacle of Ky Quan San. At this juncture, it felt as if we were crossing a floating path of white clouds. We traversed dense, somber forests and crossed through rhododendron groves, surmounting terrain so steep that we often had to cling to rock walls and tree roots to ascend.
The ultimate challenge lay in crossing the “Dinosaur’s Spine” – a treacherous terrain flanked by cliffs, only softened by shrubs that swayed with every gust of strong wind. This spot was particularly windswept due to its position on the mountain’s saddle point. The vistas were extraordinary, revealing the expanse of mountain peaks and ranges, endlessly layered and overlapping. Despite the elevation and daunting accessibility, we encountered locals harvesting moss and spreading it out to dry on any available flat surface. Later, they would gather it into sizable sacks and embark on the arduous descent down the mountain.
The scenery changed constantly, from moss-clad hillsides to ancient rhododendron forests, to towering trees adorned with green moss that obstructed the trail, to vast bamboo forests ascending to the mountaintops. Amidst this expanse of greenery, the peak of Ky Quan San emerged. Taking a deep breath, an iconic Northwestern scene appeared before our eyes.
With its diverse and rather challenging terrain, climbers must be skillful and fit to reach the summit of Ky Quan San Mountain. Those who do will be rewarded by the region’s beauty, as well as by unique experiences and emotions.
My memories of conquering Ky Quan San are like smoldering embers that blaze to life in my mind when I hear someone mention mountain climbing. I often eagerly ask: “Have you climbed Bach Moc Luong Tu yet?”.
