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Story: Prof. Dr. Trinh Sinh
Photos: Dao Canh
As a place where “mountains and waters converge”, Con Son – Kiep Bac is considered sacred according to feng shui principles. Six rivers meet in this area, resulting in the name “Luc Dau Giang” (Six-Headed River). A legend recounts how each river represents a dragon, and the confluence of six dragons makes this land exceptional. Our ancestors gave poetic names to four of these river: Thien Duc (the grace of heaven, also the name of a constellation symbolizing benevolence and harmony) refers to the Duong River; Nhat Duc (the grace of the sun, which shines on all living things daily) describes the Thuong River; Nguyet Duc (the grace of the moon) describes the Cau River; and Minh Duc (a pure and bright heart) refers to the Luc Nam River. These names reflect the spiritual importance our ancestors placed on the “convergence of waters”, a sacred land in Hai Duong province, where human virtues and the universe’s powers intertwined.
Con Son – Kiep Bac is also a place where “mountains converge”. Kiep Bac Temple leans against Tran Rong Mountain, with Nam Tao Peak on one side and Bac Dau on the other, while the Phuong Hoang mountain range forms a distant arc. Con Son Pagoda is located on Con Son Mountain, also known as Hun Mountain. Viewed more broadly, this region lies where mountains meet the Red River Delta, with the Dong Trieu mountain range to the east and Tam Dao and Ba Vi to the west.
Areas where hills and river deltas meet typically offer stunning scenery, as described by historians of the Nguyen dynasty about 150 years ago:
“Con Son Mountain is located 21 miles northeast of Chi Linh district and is shaped like a unicorn, hence its other name, Ky Lan Mountain. On the mountain is Thanh Hu Cave, built by the Tran dynasty mandarin Tran Nguyen Dan as a place to drink wine and write poetry after he retired. Nguyen Trai of the Le dynasty also resided here in his later years. At the foot of the mountain lies a pond called Mat Rong Well, with streams continuously flowing around it. Nearby are Thau Ngoc Bridge and Bach Van Hermitage, and at the mountain’s peak stands Tu Phuc Pagoda.
Zen Master Phap Loa built and lived in Ho Thien and Chan Lac Hermitages. King Tran Thai Tong once visited the area. It is said that Zen Master Huyen Quang also practiced here. According to local custom, every early spring, young men and women gather at the pagoda to offer incense, celebrating a week-long festival that is the most vibrant in the region. During King Tran Minh Tong’s reign, Chancellor Ly Dao Tai, retired and lived here in seclusion, under the name Ung Quang. King Le Thai Tong also visited and wrote poems about this place.”
It is an enduring principle that areas of spiritual significance give rise to exceptional people. Many national heroes who achieved remarkable feats have links to Con Son – Kiep Bac, an area that has drawn many kings, scholars, and nobles.
First and foremost, Tran Hung Dao, the renowned Tran dynasty general, established a plantation in Kiep Bac. The remnants of its foundations may still be seen today in Hung Dao ward, Chi Linh city, where people have built a temple to worship the general, revering him as “the Holy Tran”. Tran Hung Dao led 200,000 troops to victory over 500,000 invading Mongol soldiers, with a key battle being the Battle of Van Kiep in 1258. This site now lies in Van Yen, Hung Dao, Chi Linh. The heroic spirt of the Binh Than Conference still resonates in Tran Xa, Chi Linh, now part of Nam Sach district. At this conference, King Tran Nhan Tong and Emperor Tran Thanh Tong discussed strategies to defend the country. One anecdote recounts how Tran Quoc Toan, who was not allowed to attend the meeting, angrily squeezed an orange and formed his own army of over a thousand men under a flag embroidered with six golden words: “Phá Cường tặc, báo Hoàng ân (Defeat the strong enemy, repay the king’s grace)”.
In his later years, the national liberation hero and “world cultural celebrity” Nguyen Trai retired to Con Son Pagoda to live in seclusion. There is also a temple devoted to Chu Van An on Phuong Hoang Mountain. After resigning from office he lived here in solitude and taught students. Another “world cultural celebrity”, Chu Van An is revered as the “exemplary teacher for ten thousand generations”.
Buddhism has strong roots in Con Son. After abdicating, Emperor Tran Nhan Tong founded the Truc Lam Zen School, which is associated with the “Three Truc Lam Patriarchs”. Tran Nhan Tong was the First Patriarch, while the other two were Phap Loa and Huyen Quang, who also practiced here.
Reminders of the Tran dynasty and Buddhism are common in this sacred land and include Con Son Pagoda and Thanh Mai Pagoda in Hoang Hoa Tham commune, Chi Linh, built by Zen Master Phap Loa in 1329.
When this master passed away at Thanh Mai Pagoda, the “Vien Thong Stupa” was built to enshrine his relics. Its stele is a designated National Treasure. King Tran Anh Tong gave this master the title of “Great Wise, Pure, Intelligent, Virtuous Zen Master”.
Zen Master Huyen Quang was the abbot of Con Son Pagoda. After his passing, King Tran Minh Tong ordered the construction of the “Dang Minh Stupa” to enshrine his relics. Another National Treasure, the “Thanh Hu Cave” stele is found in this pagoda. It was carved during the reign of King Tran Due Tong.
In 2012, Con Son – Kiep Bac was declared a Special National Relic Site. This region attracts tourists eager to explore its rich historical and cultural heritage and admire its captivating scenery of lush green pine forests and clear streams.
