Story and Photos HIEN BAU

Socotia is an unspoiled destination that offers a rare chance to disconnect from the world.

Warmth and hospitality is always on display

If you tell people you are planning to visit Socotra, their most likely response will be: “Where is that?” This small island is an offshore territory of Yemen, with the Arabian Sea to the north and the Indian Ocean to the south. Getting to Socotra is not easy, but it’s not as difficult as you might fear. The primary challenge lies in the limited number of flights to the island: currently, there are only three weekly flights, with an unpredictable schedule.

Socotra is one of the world’s most isolated landforms of continental origin, meaning it was not formed by volcanoes. Politically, it belongs to Yemen, but geographically, Socotra is part of the Somali plate in Africa. The island is often likened to an alien planet due to its rich biodiversity, with 37% of plant species, 90% of reptile species and 95% of land snail species that are not found anywhere else in the world. For many people (myself included), the dragon blood tree forest with its massive round canopy is the island’s biggest attraction. Alongside the distinctive, visually striking dragon blood tree, the bottle tree with its peculiar bulbous trunk is another truly captivating sight.

After a nearly 3-hour flight from Abu Dhabi, our plane landed at Socotra International Airport. A small group of about 20 tourists lined up to clear immigration, which took a little more than 30 minutes. The Socotra visa, which does not allow entry into Yemen, is printed on an A4 sheet and not stamped in the passport. Leaving the airport, a 20-minute drive brought me to the capital, Hadibu. My guide took me to a restaurant, touted as the largest and finest in the city. After exchanging some money and buying fruits and vegetables for the upcoming week of wild camping, we headed straight to the campsite. On the first night at the site, I was the only tourist, while some other guests headed out to the campsites the next day. Those who are reluctant to sleep in tents can choose to stay in Hadibu and drive to the tourist sites every day, which are all 1-2 hours away from the city and each other. Hadibu has just a few main streets and is the only place on the island with hotels for tourists.

Apart from the dragon blood tree forest, all the other campsites are located by the sea and offer only minimal facilities: fresh water taps, bathrooms and toilets. Tour companies provide tents and mattresses but guests need to bring personal items such as sleeping bags, towels and toiletries. The car also carries a gas stove, cooking supplies and food.

At each camping spot, the driver will set up the tents and also be in charge of cooking. The food is quite similar to Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine, but the seasoning is light and quite palatable. At sites where many groups camp, travelers often invite each other to pool food and cook together. There are also usually cars selling fish and seafood around the campsite to supplement the meals.

Socotra International Airport

Although it is a small island surrounded by waters with abundant seafood, the locals here mostly only eat fish (and lobster if the family can afford it). Other types of seafood such as crabs, squid, octopus, sea urchins, and clams are eaten only by people in fishing villages and can be bought at very cheap prices from local markets or fishermen’s stalls.

At the campsites, there were no generators, only electricity from solar-charged batteries, so we guests had to be extremely frugal. There were just a few dim, small lamps providing light in the bathroom area. With no electricity and no WiFi, I initially thought a week here would feel endless, but I got used to the stark, minimal living conditions after just one day. The locals are incredibly friendly and polite – everyone says they have no crime and have never witnessed anyone fighting or raising their voices.

While many parts of the world are developing rapidly, it is refreshing to know that unique places like Socotra still exist. After a week of being disconnected from the modern world, I didn’t expect to feel so reluctant to leave. I am already planning my return to the island in spring, when the weather will be warmer, the sea calmer and the whole island in vibrant bloom.

There are direct flights to Socotra from Abu Dhabi (2.5 hours) twice a week on Tuesdays and Fridays, and one flight from Cairo on Mondays with a stopover in mainland Yemen.

Socotra currently has around 7-8 tourism companies, most of which offer similar tour itineraries and services.

Hadibu, the capital, is the only place with hotels, which are quite basic. The first 6-story hotel, funded by investors from the United Arab Emirates, is currently under construction.

The roads leading to the forests or sites in the mountains are quite poor, with many rocks. If camping, each car can carry a maximum of three guests, but two guests will be more comfortable and the cost difference is not significant. Each car will carry tents, mattresses and cooking equipment sufficient for its guests.

At the campsites, there is only solar-powered electricity for lighting in the bathroom area. There are no charging points for phones or cameras throughout the entire week. Charging in cars is possible but very slow, so visitors should bring multi-USB power banks to allow multiple devices to charge at once.