Vo Hong Thu
Discover the taste of nostalgia and the aroma of sweet memories with these favorite winter dishes.

Dalat’s chicken hotpot with lemon basil
On an early winter’s evening in Dalat, a musician friend from Hanoi, who had opened a music cafe there a few years back, invited us to enjoy chicken hotpot with lemon basil. We were excited. The cool weather was perfect for gathering around a steaming hotpot. And so, we set off, following the locals, certain of a delicious meal ahead.
The small eatery was right on Bui Thi Xuan Street. Dalat now has a few streets with traffic lights, and is no longer as free-spirited as it used to be, yet it remains a quiet city, especially as night falls. The waitress quickly served up a hotpot for four. I gently lifted the lid. The water was simmering, shimmering with neatly chopped pieces of chicken and plump, white mushrooms. We were given a plate of fresh lemon basil, a small dish of white rice noodles, and a few small bowls of seasoning mixed according to some secret recipe. Green chilies and lemon were placed in a small dish, for us to add as we wished. The musician quickly ladled out steaming bowls for each of us, demonstrating how to savor the broth with appreciative sniffs and slurps. From being slightly huddled up against the highland chill, our muscles began to relax and soften.
The eatery was simply decorated, but the taste of the hotpot was rich and impressive. Dalat chicken hotpot with lemon basil is straightforward – free-range chicken cooked in bone broth, paired with the sweet freshness of mushrooms to create a gently soothing sweetness. The lemon basil, thrown into the boiling pot, should be quickly removed to preserve its sharp, aromatic flavor. A home cook could prepare chicken hotpot with lemon basil for a family meal, but enjoying it at home lacks the charm of savoring this hot meal in the chilly air of Dalat.

Chinese floating rice cakes in Hanoi’s Old Quarter
Why must one go to the Old Quarter when Chinese floating rice cakes are sold in many streets around the capital, especially at the start of winter?
This dessert is associated with memories of sidewalk food stalls, where people savor both the sweetness of this delicious pudding and the flow of life as winter enters the streets and night falls. Chinese floating rice cakes are sold at all hours, but it’s most delightful to eat them at twilight or after dinner.
In essence, Chinese floating rice cakes are simple, yet intricate to prepare. The dish is served in a pristine white bowl slightly larger than ones used for dipping sauce. Fitting perfectly in this bowl are a round bean-paste dumpling and an oval-shaped dumpling filled with black sesame. These dumplings are scooped from a large, constantly bubbling pot — a sign they’re made just right. Hot, sweet syrup is poured over them, barely covering their surface. The true delight comes from cradling the steaming bowl in your chilly hands, slowly savoring the faint scent of ginger as the aroma of freshly grated coconut and ground peanuts tantalizes your senses. Chinese floating rice cakes should not be eaten in a hurry. Delicately cut each piece with a spoon and relish every bite. After finishing a bowl, one feels light and invigorated, as after consuming a warming drink on a chilly winter’s day.
Thang Co, a winter delicacy in the Northwestern region
Every province in Vietnam’s Northwest has “thang co”. This traditional horse meat hotpot can alarm lowland diners. Much like other strong-flavored delicacies such as durian, once one acquires the taste, it becomes a fascinating experience.
Even if you are apprehensive about this somewhat “intense” dish, you’ll surely feel a warmth in your heart upon watching a pot of boiling Thang Co in a bustling market, amidst the bone-chilling winter of the highlands. You might unexpectedly find yourself sitting next to a pot of Thang Co, drawn by the heat. Suddenly, you are enveloped by an intensely spicy aroma. It provides instant comfort if you’re feeling worried. The intoxicating fragrance comes from the spices, including amomum tsao-ko, cinnamon, ginger, lemongrass, and Thang Co leaves. There are up to 12 different spices in a pot of Thang Co. They evoke the scent of the Northwestern forests. When you are feeling chilled and your stomach is empty, the ingredients in that bubbling pot emit an enticing aroma, urging you to abandon the caution you brought from the lowlands.