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Story: Pham Minh Quan
Photos: Nguyen Hai
As waves crash against rocky cliffs, winds stir rows of coconut palms, and distant temple bells chime, Phu Quoc emerges not only as a paradise of sun and sea but also as a land of sacred calm. Fishermen place their faith in temples and shrines that cling to hillsides or rise above the water, while visitors find a rare sense of inner peace.
For generations, the sea has both sustained the people of Phu Quoc and tested their resilience. From this bond with the ocean, faith was born, so that every voyage begins with an offered stick of incense and a whispered prayer. Among the island’s many temples and shrines, four stand out, drawing locals and visitors: the Temple of Saint Tran Hung Dao, the Shrine of Holy Mother Kim Giao, Dinh Cau Shrine, and the Shrine of the Holy Mother Thuy Long.
The Temple of Saint Tran Hung Dao, situated on a street that bears his name, honors the national hero who repelled three waves of Mongol invaders. Before an altar shrouded in incense smoke, islanders commemorate the general’s historic victories while seeking his guidance and protection.
While the Temple of Tran Hung Dao embodies national pride, the Shrine of Holy Mother Kim Giao preserves a local legend about a woman who cleared wild lands and sheltered Nguyen Anh during his years in exile. Modest in size, this shrine faces the open sea, evoking a sense of serenity and divine guardianship. During annual festivals, pilgrims join local worshippers, listening to stories of the island’s earliest settlers.
No summary of Phu Quoc’s spiritual landscape is complete without mention of Dinh Cau, an iconic shrine perched dramatically on a rocky promontory jutting into the sea. A stone stairway leads up to a majestic and mystical scene: waves crash below in bursts of white foam, while above, the temple enshrines Lady Ngoc Nuong Nuong and the spirits Cau Tai and Cau Quy. Islanders believe these deities help to rescue fishermen caught in storms. Held annually in the tenth lunar month, the Dinh Cau Festival combines solemn rituals and vibrant coastal festivities.
Islanders visit the Shrine of the Holy Mother Thuy Long, dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea, to pray for calm waters and abundant harvests. Held in the first lunar month, its festival bears the marks of folk beliefs and blends Vietnamese, Khmer, Cham, and Hoa traditions. In a soft haze of incense, humble fishermen bow in prayer – an image etched in the island’s collective memory, forming a living bridge between humanity and the ocean.
Beyond these four landmarks, Phu Quoc is home to other sites of spiritual significance. The Temple of Nguyen Trung Truc in Ganh Dau honors a fearless hero who fought against French colonizers. Ho Quoc Pagoda, belonging to the Truc Lam Zen Buddhist sect, offers a different experience: from its terraces, sea and forest converge in sweeping harmony, inspiring both tranquility and awe.
Researchers note that goddess worship on Phu Quoc reflects the island’s deep-rooted maritime culture. At first, people beseeched the Sea Goddess to ensure calm waters and safe journeys. These practices later merged with Vietnamese Mother Goddess traditions, absorbing Khmer and Cham influences to form a uniquely layered cultural tapestry. Shrines to the Lady and the Spirits are not only places of devotion but enduring evidence of cultural convergence on this island.
Embarking on a spiritual journey in Phu Quoc means more than visiting sacred sites. It also involves listening to timeless stories, feeling the islanders’ steadfast faith in the sea, and sensing how that faith has carried them through storms, nurtured their love for their homeland, and shaped their cultural identity.
Nowadays, amidst modern resorts and lively beaches, pealing temple bells and incense smoke drifting from shrines and temples remind us that this island is not only a natural wonder but also a sanctuary of the soul. For travelers, Phu Quoc is more than a destination of sun and sea breezes. It is a journey back to the roots of belief, a thread binding humanity to the heavens, the ocean, and oneself.
Vietnam Airlines offers direct flights between Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Can Tho, and Phu Quoc. Please visit www.vietnamairlines.com for more information and special offers.
