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Nguyen Trong Cung
Standing 2,913 meters tall, Mount Lung Cung is hailed as the rooftop of Mu Cang Chai district in Yen Bai district. Recognized as one of the most beautiful mountains in Vietnam, Lung Cung is drawing more adventure-loving tourists each year.
The best trekking season on Lung Cung is from late October to the end of December. I chose a dry, cool day in mid-November, when the ancient maple trees on the summit were changing color, dressing the mountain in vibrant hues. My group took a bus to Tu Le town, where we met a local porter who would guide us and carry our group’s food. From there, we traveled by motorbike taxi to Tu San village, about 15 km from the center of Tu Le. Rough and rocky, the road took about 1.5 hours to traverse. This was just the first leg of an emotional journey, where steep slopes precariously perched on the edge of cliffs. I had to cling tightly and brace myself against the driver each time we ascended or descended.
Our motorbike taxis dropped us at the edge of the forest, from where we began to hike through gently sloping hills planted with Docynia. Beyond these low hills lies a completely different landscape. The forest suddenly cooled under the shade of ancient chestnut and oak trees. Following trails created by local Hmong people, we arrived at Hau Chua La Waterfall, a popular lunch stop for trekking groups. In the Hmong language: Hau Chua means ‘cliff’, and La means ‘monkey’. This area was once the habitat of wild monkeys. Although no monkeys remain, some wildlife, especially various bird species, may be seen.
Hiking at a pace akin to a slow walk, I reached the overnight hut around 5 PM. For me, walking in the forest is a sacred and unique experience. The forest was bathed in sunlight, with a carpet of fallen leaves as soft as velvet. Looking up, the forest canopy formed unique shapes with sparkling colors. Entering the forest with an open mind, I truly disconnected from the outside world, feeling the sunlight dancing on the leaves, listening to the stream babbling below, watching maple leaves flutter in the twilight, and admiring small, exotic flowers along the deserted path. These were unforgettable moments etched in the heart of a traveler.
Built on flat ground, the overnight hut at Lung Cung sits at an altitude of 2,400 meters. Sunlight filtering through smoke from the kitchen added warmth to the chilly Northwest evening. A haunting sunset overtook us.
After a simple dinner of grilled pork and boiled vegetables, I drifted off to the sounds of the mountains echoing back, and the raindrops falling on the hut’s roof. The next day, I began my ascent at 4 AM. The fog was thick, limiting visibility, but as I climbed higher, I encountered a breathtaking sea of clouds. Passing through forests of bamboo and ancient maples, I reached a breezy mountainside adorned with dwarf rhododendrons and wild daisies. The expansive view allowed me to see all of Nam Co commune below and the surrounding high peaks. Enthralled by the landscape and sea of clouds, I reached the summit of Lung Cung at 9 AM.
The descent was equally moving as the sun dispersed the clouds, revealing ancient maples in vibrant reds and yellows, shining against the blue sky. Although I have climbed through great maple forests on many high peaks in Vietnam, including Ta Lien (Lai Chau) and Nhiu Co San (Lao Cai), Lung Cung’s scenery still overwhelmed me. For me, this is the most beautiful maple forest in Vietnam during late autumn and early winter.
There are currently three routes to conquer Lung Cung. One is the Tu San village route, belonging to Nam Co commune, which I took. Another goes from Thao Chua Chai village in Mu Cang Chai, passing through the famous Ta Cua Y Valley. The third, less known route, ascends from Lung Cung village – the namesake of the mountain. The porter told me how this route boasts peach blossoms, plum blossoms, pure white hawthorn trees, and fiery red azaleas along the path in the springtime, leaving me eager to return and witness a different scene.
