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Story: Huong Quynh
Photos: Dung BHD, Thai Viet Hoan
When admiring Hoang Phong’s paintings of Hanoi, one might easily assume the artist was born in the capital or has lived there all his life. Yet surprisingly, Phong resides in Saigon. For him, Hanoi was love at first sight – an instant, powerful impression that continues to inspire his art. The quiet corners, the vibrant sunlight, the wistful silhouettes of rooftops and tree-lined streets – all the subtle emotions of Hanoi have been rendered with tenderness and meticulous detail in his brushstrokes. Hoang Phong shared his affection for Hanoi in a conversation with Heritage.
When did you first set eyes on Hanoi, and what impression did it leave on you?
Nearly ten years ago, I first came to the capital at the turn of late autumn and early winter – the most beautiful and memorable time of the year. As a son of the South, I felt incredibly fortunate to be immersed in the gentle autumn light that softened each ancient street. The French colonial architecture seemed to blend seamlessly with the rhythm of Hanoian life. I was captivated from that very first visit, and since then, I have returned every year, in all four seasons – wandering the streets, meeting friends, and reflecting on the subtle transformations of the city through time.
So, autumn must be your favorite season in Hanoi?
Absolutely. Hanoi’s autumn is a true muse – not only for me but for countless others. Its rhythm feels so different. Life still carries the same daily hustle, yet before the beauty of golden sunlight and the coolness in the breeze, people seem to pause and soften. It is in these moments that Hanoi’s simple beauty lingers: in the footsteps of a young woman on the sidewalk, in the clasped hands of an elderly couple, or in the flower-laden bicycles of street vendors. Still, every season has its charm, often tied to blossoms – Hanoi has twelve flowers for twelve months, and I have painted them all.
As you return each year, do you notice much change in the city?
Of course. Yet the Old Quarter, which I love the most, has remained relatively unchanged. Still, I sometimes feel regret when an old house is renovated or rebuilt. Perhaps that’s why I paint Hanoi so often – my way of preserving the beauty I hold dear.
Your paintings are often untitled. Why is that?
I follow realism, recreating scenes of streets, trees, landmarks, and architecture. I want viewers to lose themselves in the scene without being led by a title or philosophy. Still, I’m happy when my works are affectionately nicknamed – like “The Tram,” “Hang Dao Street,” or “Long Bien Bridge.”
Many say your paintings evoke an older Hanoi, with subdued tones. Was that your intention?
I do love the timeless aspects of Hanoi, but color choice depends on the moment – on my emotions and creative thinking. Sometimes I long for vibrancy, other times for muted tones, but I never force it. What matters most is capturing Hanoi’s vitality. You’ll always find people in my paintings, for they are inseparable from the soul of the city.
Do you worry that one day you might run out of ideas for painting Hanoi?
I’ve never thought of that. There are still so many places I have yet to visit, so many landmarks I have yet to study. Without doubt, I will continue to paint Hanoi – my beloved capital – for years to come.
In 2023, Hoang Phong held the exhibition “A Little Love for the City,” presenting 54 evocative paintings of Hanoi to the public.
