Story: Hương Quỳnh
Photos: Amachau, Đào Cảnh

“Our boat rows upstream, our boat rows on silvery water, paddles echo round.
Who built the dam?
Who carved the mountain?
To fill the lake like a mirror reflecting green mountains and crystal waters…”

Musician Pho Duc Phuong composed the song Lake on the Mountain after a visit to Cam Son Lake (Bac Ninh Province) – an experience that touched the artist’s heart. The pristine beauty of the forested mountains, combined with human industry, has crafted this magical place, which is often called “the miniature Ha Long Bay of the Northeast”.

The lush green landscape of Cam Son Lake

Ranked among the five largest man-made lakes in Vietnam, Cam Son spans nearly 30 kilometers, with a surface area reaching up to 3,000 hectares, depending on the season. It was originally built to store and regulate freshwater for the large downstream communities along the Thuong River. Beyond its role in irrigation, Cam Son Lake offers great potential for tourism development thanks to its beautiful landscape of forested mountains and small islets.

An early morning boat ride allowed us to appreciate this lake’s untouched charm and serenity. As our boat gently glided across the lake, a layer of mist lent the scene a dreamlike quality. At times, I wished our boat would simply stop, rather than drift into the fog. The crisp, pure air seemed to wash away the burdens of daily life. In the distance, a small fishing boat piled with nets added life to the tranquil and picturesque scene, like a living painting unfurling before our eyes.

Both banks of the lake were covered in endless plantations of lychee trees in Luc Ngan Commune. This notoriously hard-to-grow tree requires gently sloped terrain with good drainage, balanced sunlight and rainfall, and meticulous care to yield fruit that is delicately sweet and thick-fleshed with tiny seeds.

A group of Nung women in traditional dress

Our boat docked at the home of a village elder, who shared his experiences in growing and harvesting lychees. Farming lychees is hard work, demanding hard physical labor to produce fruit. The market has always been unstable, with prices often falling after bumper crops and skyrocketing during poor harvests. Following our heartfelt conversation, the host invited us to share a rustic yet delicious meal of local specialties made from hill chickens, freshly caught lake fish, and freshwater shrimp.

Visitors to Cam Son Lake are often encouraged to visit Bac Hoa Village, where the traditional rammed-earth houses of local Nung ethnic people stand proudly. This peaceful lakeside village bursts with joy and laughter whenever visitors arrive. Elderly residents and middle-aged women greet tourists with radiant smiles, eager to talk about their village and traditional clothing.

Sunset over the lake

Bac Hoa is a cultural highlight of Bac Ninh Province, since residents and local authorities have long collaborated to preserve the area’s traditional values. Nearly 100 ancient rammed-earth houses have been maintained, testifying to these preservation efforts. Most villagers make a living by farming and raising livestock. Despite facing challenges, the community retains a strong and caring way of life. In seasons where less farm work is required, women gather to embroider, weave, and sing together in the Sloong Hao Singing Club, practicing a form of folk music unique to Nung people. The club meets regularly, helping to preserve this precious cultural treasure and pass it on to younger generations.

As the afternoon sun cast golden reflections on the lake’s green mirror, our boat gently returned to the dock. In my heart, the rhythm of Lake on the Mountain began to echo once again:

“The sunset’s shadow ripples on the stream.
I watch heaven and earth tilt in the mirrored gleam.
Hear the forest.
Hear the oars beat in rhythm as life flows and sings…”