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Story: Hoang Bui
Photos: Nguyen Hai
Hidden among the towering limestone mountains in the northwest of Quang Binh province (now Quang Tri province), the Tu Lan cave system is a masterpiece of nature. Here, outdoor enthusiasts can embark on a dream expedition. It’s no coincidence that this area was chosen as the backdrop for several Hollywood blockbusters, including Kong: Skull Island. With fierce yet lyrical beauty, this region offers a breathtaking symphony of earth and sky.
Tu Lan – An underground adventure
The journey starts in Co Liem Village, where a concrete road winds through lush green rice fields, leading visitors into the Tu Lan Valley. The fresh air, cheerful birdsong, and vibrant green paddy fields create a gentle prelude before the thrilling adventure begins. Visitors are thoroughly equipped for the expedition at Tu Lan Lodge, a building suited to this flood- prone area. They need only carry essential items while local porters transport their gear.
Our group followed the gentle, crystal-clear, and refreshingly cool Rao Nan Stream. Under golden sunlight, the water sparkled like countless shimmering mirrors. The first challenge was a hill blanketed in wild grass, leading up to the entrance of Hung Ton Cave, about 50 meters up a cliff face, like a quiet punctuation mark etched into the cliff. Entering the cave, we traded dazzling brightness for deep darkness and warm air for a cool chill. Massive stalactites glimmered under our flashlight beams, like living bas-reliefs carved by the hands of time. Touching the smooth stone felt like brushing against millions of years of geological formations.
Deeper in the cave, we floated along a gentle underground river, less than 50 meters long. Drifting through this mystical realm, accompanied by only the sounds of water and our own breathing, felt like slipping into another world. When a burst of light appeared at the end of the tunnel, a small hidden valley was revealed, encircled by magnificent mountains – a well-earned reward after our journey through darkness.
Continuing the expedition, we reached Ken Cave, where nature has crafted a miraculous contrast between the cave’s dry and wet branches. Each step unveiled a different secret world. Then, Kim Cave emerged, its narrow entrance and jagged rocks testing every footstep, although the thrill of discovery overcame all our weariness. This cave is notable for being a natural water outlet, with collapsed stalactite blocks bearing witness to the relentless power of time and floods. A sudden sinkhole opens to the sky, allowing beams of light to stream in, creating a scene of surreal beauty.
One of our group members, Luke Ford, a person working in the tourism system, could not hide his excitement: “Compared to other caves I’ve explored in Quang Binh, Tu Lan is truly special. The scenery here is wild, magnificent, and full of challenges.” His enthusiasm was contagious, making the whole group even more eager to see our next destination.
Tu Lan Cave is the grand highlight of the trip. Stretching 2,226 meters, it presents a panoramic portrait of nature’s grandeur. Towering stalactites, rugged pathways, and a waterfall inside the cave create an extraordinary and captivating landscape. Howard Limbert, leader of The British Vietnam Caving Expedition Team, member of the British Caving Association, once remarked that the waterfall inside Tu Lan was unlike anything he had ever seen, a testament to its unique and outstanding features.
The journey concluded at Tien Cave 2, where colossal stalactites and swirling stone veins, shaped by nature’s delicate hand, unfolded before our eyes. Time has left its traces across the rocky floors, like a tapestry woven by centuries of water and wind. As well as being our geographical endpoint, Tien Cave 2 marked an emotional ending, leaving us with the sense that we had touched the soul of the mountains and forests.
Where nature speaks of wonders
Tu Lan is more than a travel destination; it is a place for challenges, exploration, slowing down, and truly feeling. Throughout the journey, travelers continuously shift between emotional states, trekking through dense forests, swimming in icy underground rivers, scrambling up steep rock faces, and squeezing through damp stone crevices. Every step is
an experience: clothes get soaked and dried, bodies bask in sunlight and are swallowed by the caves’ darkness. The true pleasure of an experiential adventure is to leave everyday comforts behind and become fully immersed in the wild.
Tu Lan is not for those seeking a leisurely vacation. Conquering this one-of-a-kind natural wonder requires facing not just physical challenges, but also engaging in an internal dialogue about limits, endurance, and above all, a profound love for nature. This is a place for the brave-hearted, for those unafraid of mud, sheer cliffs, or deep waters. But if you are one of them, prepared for a journey spent getting “wet then dry, dry then wet again,” crossing forests, climbing rocks,
and venturing into the heart of the earth, Tu Lan will be an experience you will never forget.
