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Story: Ha Quyen
Photos: Dao Canh
In Lang Son, visitors will find a region often dubbed “a little Mongolia” – the Dong Lam steppe. Covering nearly 100 hectares and situated in Huu Lien Commune, the landscape features quiet green meadows, expansive lakes, limestone mountains, waterfalls, and streams that wind through the valley.
Just under a three-hour drive from Hanoi, Dong Lam is ideal for short trips. The area has two distinct seasons that transform its terrain: the dry season, from November to June, brings endless carpets of green grass stretching to the horizon. The rainy season, from July to October, floods the entire steppe, turning it into a vast lake.
Each season has its own appeal. In the dry months, visitors can wander across the open grasslands, watch horses, buffalo, and goats grazing freely, and admire the layered mountains in the distance. During the flooded months, the steppe becomes a playground for water sports. Visitors can float on bamboo rafts, kayak, and fish. No matter the season, the fresh mountain air carries the sweet scent of grass and leaves, making this place unexpectedly soothing.
Even if you visit during the dry season, there are nearby waterscapes to explore. Not far from the steppe lies Nong Dung, a natural lake nestled in a valley surrounded by limestone ridges. With still and clear water, this lake is the perfect place to kayak or simply drift while watching the sky meet the mountains. The lake is loveliest at sunrise, when light mist floats over the water and softens the scenery.
Several villages home to Dao, Nung, and Tay people lie within two or three kilometers of Dong Lam. Many locals now operate eco-tourism homestays, welcoming guests to their traditional stilt houses. The hosts offer sincere hospitality, an authentic local experience, and a growing sense of professionalism.
Staying overnight means joining family life. Tourists can share meals by the hearth, raise a cup of herbal liquor, listen to the soft notes of the tinh (a gourd lute), and enjoy then singing. Lines between hosts and guests are blurred in these warm gatherings.
Beyond the scenery, the food alone is worth the journey. The locals are skilled cooks, and their ingredients are homegrown. Choosing what to eat for lunch or dinner is challenging when faced with a menu of steamed or grilled meats, fish seasoned with mountain herbs, cải làn greens, other fresh vegetables, and rustic leaf-wrapped cakes such as black banh chung, pumpkin cake, or mugwort cake. The dishes are simple but leave a lasting impression. Many visitors take these specialties home as gifts.
Huu Lien Commune is also known for its festive spirit. Those who enjoy lively celebrations should time their visit to coincide with events like the Go Chua Communal House Festival, in the first lunar month, or the Dong Lam Steppe Festival, typically held in late October or November.
Beyond the many activities and beautiful views, most visitors are struck by the warmth and hospitality of the local people. An idle walk through the fields at dusk, a quiet moment resting on the grass, or an evening gathered around the fire – each becomes part of a collection of memories that linger long after you leave this peaceful corner of the Lang region.
