Story: Ngo Quang Minh
Photos: Amachau, Viet Linh, Ngoc Binh

In his memoirs, General Vo Nguyen Giap poured his heart and emotions into recounting the Dien Bien Phu Campaign. Despite having commanded major operations like the Border Campaign, the Hoa Binh Campaign, and the Northwest Campaign, the Dien Bien Phu Campaign remained the most challenging and crucial decision in the legendary Commander’s life.

The Muong Thanh Valley

Seventy years after that victorious day, his memories of Dien Bien resonate with the heroic echoes of history. From high lookouts that witnessed every step of the people’s resolute progress, to villages full of spring flowers in this heroic land, traces of the warm-hearted, resilient, and courageous people of Dien Bien are evident everywhere. Muong Phang, the site of the Dien Bien Phu Campaign command post, approximately 40km from the city center, has transformed from a dense forest that sheltered soldiers during wartime to a historic monument that preserves the enduring greenery of those years.

Revisiting the simple and untouched workplace of General Vo Nguyen Giap, Deputy Chief of General Staff and Special Chief of Staff of the Dien Bien Phu Campaign Hoang Van Thai, Military Adviser Vi Quoc Thanh, and Information Chief Hoang Dao Thuy, one can hear the historic tale of the 105 days (January 31, 1954 – May 15, 1954) they spent at the Command Post, using their great intellect to pursue the values of independence and peace.

The A1 Martyrs Cemetery

Beneath the ancient forest canopy, time seems to stand still, and the space exudes a tranquil atmosphere. The pride of our forefathers, whose victory once “shone across five continents and shook the world”, is not confined to the pages of books and history; it resonates as a constant companion before the eyes of every witness.

One cannot forget the landmark of Hill A1 – a strategically crucial position in the campaign. Today, Hill A1 lies peacefully under the sun, but who can forget the turmoil it faced during the days of smoke and fire? The marks of craters created by nearly one ton of explosives, preserved intact, stand as a testament to the extraordinary courage of the Vietnamese people during the 39 days and nights of combat. The generations that followed will never forget the epic tale of that century. Not far from the historic site of Hill A1 is the A1 Martyrs Cemetery, built in 1958. This is the resting place of the brave soldiers and personnel who sacrificed their lives during the Dien Bien Phu Campaign. Thirty years ago, the cemetery was transformed  into the role of a cultural-historic landmark. Its mortuary building was designed to resemble the traditional stilt houses of the Thai people, along with a memorial in the style of the Pavilion of Edicts, with walls, moats, and reliefs depicting the story of “Nine years to create the history of Dien Bien – of red laurel wreaths and golden history.”

Pha Din Pass

The journey to Dien Bien is never too far, and in March, it feels even closer! This is the time when mountain ebony or Bauhinia flowers cover the slopes in white. Pha Din Pass, where artillery and ammunition were transported for the campaign, paving the way for the later “Muong Thanh, Hong Cum, Him Lam – The plum blossoms turn white again, the orange orchards ripen again.” The 32km-long pass is considered the boundary between the provinces of Son La and Dien Bien, known in the Thai language as “Phạ Đin”, with “Phạ” meaning sky and “Đin” meaning land. The pass truly resembles the meeting point between heaven and earth due to its winding and treacherous terrain, with steep mountains on one side and deep valleys on the other.

From those heights, looking down into the Dien Bien Valley, it would be incomplete not to honor the largest rice-growing valley in Northwest Vietnam – Muong Thanh – with an area of over 140km2. Folk wisdom claims, “First Thanh, second Lo, third Than, fourth Tac,” suggesting that among the vast rice fields, Muong Thanh stands first, followed by Muong Lo (Yen Bai), Muong Than (Lai Chau), and Muong Tac (Son La). Spreading out like the petals of a Bauhinia flower embracing legendary landmarks, it is nourished by the meandering Nam Rom River, not only rich in beauty but also a beloved source of life, sustaining the people of Northwest Vietnam and providing precious rice for the entire homeland.

The journey to revisit Dien Bien never truly concludes but unfolds anew every day. With 19 ethnic communities living together, dominated by the Thai and Mong, the local culture is diverse and vibrant, boasting many intangible cultural heritages of national and international value, such as Xoe Thai dances, the festival at Hoang Cong Chat Temple (held in Ban Phu town), the water splashing festival of the Laotian people, and the decorative patterns on the traditional clothing of the Mong people… Memories of Dien Bien not only vividly recall the heroic past but also evoke a sentimental connection to the lush hills of Northwest Vietnam, adorned with Bauhinia flowers.

Key activities of the 2024 Hoa Ban Festival 2024, which takes place from now until the end of May, will coincide with the opening of the National Tourism Year – Dien Bien Phu with the theme “Returning to the Hoa Ban region”, from March 13th to 18th, 2024, in Dien Bien Phu city.

The National Tourism Year – Dien Bien Phu will stretch from now until the end of the year with many programs commemorating the 70th anniversary of the Dien Bien Phu Victory on May 7, 1954 – May 7, 2024 and the 115th anniversary of the founding of Dien Bien province on June 28, 1909 – June 28, 2024. Visitors can enjoy many art activities promoting the province’s unique culture and attractive destinations.