Advertising 
Story: Nguyen Phuoc Bao Dan
Photos: Phong Nguyen
Originating in the majestic Truong Son mountain range, the Perfume River flows through countless waterfalls and rapids, formed by the convergence of the Ta and Huu tributaries at the Bang Lang confluence. From this point, leaving behind the vast wilderness, the river softens into a gentle, silky ribbon, meandering across the alluvial plains of this sacred land and becoming a serene backdrop for the palaces and temples of the Divine Capital.
Flowing through a land full of heritage
Locals in Hue say that long ago, when Princess Huyen Tran of the Tran dynasty was married into the Cham kingdom, King Che Man (Jaya Simhavarman III) took her on a river cruise through the wilds of Ô and Lý (present-day Thuan Hoa). Enchanted by the fragrance of the sweet flag grass (Acorus gramineus) that filled the air, the princess is said to have named the river “Huong” – the Perfume River. As if echoing the close bonds between people and nature, the Huong River is often likened to the temperament of Hue’s people: gentle and calm on the surface, yet hiding deep intensity when stirred by the winds of change.
“The river hesitates, the river does not flow
It flows inward, so Hue is deep.”
As in this verse by the poet Thu Bon, through all the ebbs and flows of life, the river’s water quietly drifts toward the sea, as if carrying the deepest sentiments of the people of Hue.
Stretching over 100 kilometers from source to sea, the river’s tranquil character is most fully revealed as it glides through the land of Hue, where the terrain slopes gently at no more than 1 degree [theo bản TV]. After merging with the Bo River at Sinh Junction, the Perfume River deepens and widens before flowing into the vast Tam Giang Lagoon.
Along the banks of the fragrant river
Having served as the imperial capital for 143 years under the Nguyen monarchy, Hue is a land of legends, with the Perfume River lined by royal tombs, palaces, temples, pavilions, and noble residences. Charming antique architecture, mysterious time-worn artifacts, elegant imperial gardens, and the gracious estates and courtyards of noble families have long been entwined with everyday life for the people of Hue.
Flowing down from Bang Lang, which glows brilliantly at dusk, the river’s winding bends are lined with ancestral shrines, erected by locals in spots where currents crash against mountain rocks and form deep and treacherous pools. These shrines serve as spiritual anchors for communities whose lives have long been linked to the waterways in one way or another. Over time, many of these shrines were officially recognized, granted royal titles, and incorporated into the system of state worship practiced by the imperial court.
A prime example is Hue Nam Temple, dedicated to the Holy Mother Thien Y A Na, first built as a humble shrine to the Ngoc Tran Mountain Spirit. As its spiritual reputation grew among local communities, the site gradually drew the attention of the Nguyen dynasty and gained formal recognition. During Emperor Dong Khanh’s reign (1864–1889), it was expanded and elevated in status by royal directive. He assigned court officials to conduct ceremonial offerings twice a year, during the spring and autumn festivals. The emperor also declared himself a spiritual younger brother of the Holy Mother and assumed the role of the seventh saint in the Mother Goddess pantheon.
Like Hue Nam Temple, the Me Nam Shrine (Son Chua Temple) is associated with a mysterious tale of a sacred stone said to grow larger the more it was worshipped. Other sacred sites – such as the Temple of Mau Thoai on Hen Islet, the legend of Ba Troi Ao on Mount Ha Khe, and the shrine of Madam Ky Thach at the Sinh River junction – are also rooted in legends passed down through generations. Together, these landmarks hold deep spiritual significance for the people of Hue.
The Huong River is more than a body of water for Hue’s people. It serves as a road, a passage, and a conduit carrying the influence of the royal court to nearly every village and hamlet along its banks. From Bang Lang junction, heading west along the Ta and Huu tributaries, highland villages gradually appear. The presence of culturally distinct communities adds vibrant strokes to the river’s living tapestry. Locals often share the folk poem Thuy Dien, recited by those who fish and trade bamboo along the river. Each afternoon, they ride their bicycles with a tiffin of rice and water to the upland villages. After acquiring goods, they lash them onto rafts and silently drift back to the city under the cover of night. Passed down through generations, the poem helps river folk navigate treacherous whirlpools, shifting sandbanks, and hidden reefs.
Flowing toward the lower reaches, the river glides through areas rich in heritage, serving as both the backdrop and lifeblood of tranquil villages. Nestled among urban spaces and hillside dwellings lie ancient temples, such as Thien Mu, Ha Khe, Tu An, Buu Minh, Phuoc Duyen, and Dieu De. The bells of ancient pagodas with mossy tiled roofs chime each day, their peals mingling with the silvery mist, echoing down to the river and drifting across the land.
When in Hue, take time to follow the course of the river. Perhaps you’ll drift downstream by boat toward Tam Giang Lagoon, or ride a bicycle or motorbike along the river’s banks, witnessing daily life in villages rich with tradition. Here, rustic simplicity endures beside the city’s bustle. You may find yourself pausing under the quiet eaves of a riverside temple or immersed in the strange yet captivating rhythms of highland life.
