Story: Le Anh
Photos: Tonkin

Ba Ria-Vung Tau is known not only for its blue seas and white sands, but also for its memorable and rustic cuisine, whether from humble street food stalls or breezy floating restaurants off Long Son Island. What draws visitors even closer to this coastal region isn’t anything grand, but the unforgettable taste of local dishes that speak to the heart.

Many visitors enjoy their own little “culinary tours”, starting the morning with banh hoi at a sidewalk eatery in An Nhut, enjoying a leisurely afternoon walk followed by a plate of savory banh khot in a quiet alley, and ending the day with friends over a hotpot of sour and spicy stingray or grilled oysters dipped in salt, pepper, and lime on a wind-swept raft. Let Heritage guide you to find these must-try local specialties.

Banh hoi from An Nhut Locals in An Nhut commune (now Long Dien commune), typically start their day with banh hoi. Meticulously made from finely milled rice, the batter is steamed for about 20 minutes before being pressed through molds into delicate, lace-like sheets of rice noodles. This dish is usually served with crispy roast pork, spring rolls, or pork offal, topped with scallion oil, fresh herbs, and a sweet-sour fish sauce dip. Though banh hoi may appear simple, it demands care and precision, from selecting the right rice to perfecting the steaming method so the noodles don’t fall apart.

“We use freshly harvested rice and only steam it to order – never in advance – so it stays soft and fragrant,” shares the owner of a family-run eatery with more than 30 years of experience.

To taste this beloved dish, visit Banh Hoi An Nhut on National Highway 55 An Nhut commune (now Long Dien commune), a nearly 60-year-old shop, or stop by Banh Hoi Doc Quan at 438 Vo Thi Sau, Long Dien, another long-standing favorite, in business for almost 40 years.

Banh khot

No food tour in Vung Tau is complete without banh khot – the iconic mini savory pancakes that have become a culinary signature of this seaside town. Made in small round molds, the batter is a mix of rice flour and coconut milk, topped with fresh shrimp or squid, scallions, and a pinch of turmeric for color. Each pancake is fried in bubbling oil until the edges turn golden and crisp, while the inside remains soft and rich. Served with a basket of fresh greens and shredded pickled papaya, they’re meant to be wrapped and dipped into a Southern-style fish sauce that hits all the right notes – sweet, sour, salty, and spicy. At local shops, diners often peek into the kitchen to catch the satisfying sizzle as batter hits the hot mold.

Two spots popular with both locals and tourists are Goc Vu Sua (14 Nguyen Truong To) and Co Ba Vung Tau (1 Hoang Hoa Tham).

Grilled oysters from Long Son

Leave the city center behind and head to Long Son Island, where oysters dominate the menu. Thanks to the island’s naturally brackish waters, Long Son oysters are plump, sweet, and wonderfully fragrant. Freshly harvested, the oysters are shucked, cleaned, and grilled over hot coals – often topped with scallion oil or melted cheese, two popular preparations. Grilled with scallion oil, the oysters are lightly rich and delicately fragrant; the cheesy version is a dream for lovers of creamy, indulgent flavors.

“Oysters must be cooked fresh-grilled over charcoal immediately after they’re caught and shucked to preserve their unique flavor,” explains Mr. Binh, owner of the Nhu Y floating restaurant in Long Son.

To enjoy oysters with the wind in your hair and the scent of the sea all around, head to Mr. Binh’s raft restaurant, floating villages in Long Son such as Long Son, Go Gang, and Cha Va river raft village. You can also enjoy Long Son oysters prepared in various unique dishes at Ganh Hao Restaurant in Vung Tau.

Stingray hotpot

If you’re traveling with friends and want something comforting for dinner by the sea, stingray hotpot (lau ca duoi) is the perfect choice. While simple to prepare, the dish is loved for its harmonious flavors – sweet fish, tart pineapple and tomatoes in the broth, and fragrant bamboo shoots, lemongrass, scallions, ginger, and black pepper.

The stingray is marinated and sautéed with garlic before being added to a pot of boiling broth. It’s served with an assortment of fresh greens and thinly sliced banana blossoms. Tender yet chewy, the stingray boasts the unmistakable briny taste of the sea.

Truong Cong Dinh and Nguyen Truong To streets are lined with lau ca duoi restaurants. A good rule of thumb is to follow the crowds, but truthfully, nearly every spot is packed, even on weekdays, because this is the dish to try when in town.

The cuisine of Ba Ria-Vung Tau may not be fancy, but it leaves a lasting impression thanks to the humble, heartfelt flavors in every bite.