Story: Truong Quy
Photos: Photo Heritage Photo tour – Thai Nguyen 2024

Nestled between the Tam Dao range and the northern extremities of the arcs of the Ngan Son and Bac Son mountains, Thai Nguyen serves as a transitional zone, bridging the mountainous regions and the plains.  This province is a gateway to the highlands of Viet Bac. Located just over 70 kilometers from central Hanoi, Thai Nguyen is easily accessible via a modern expressway that has significantly reduced travel time to approximately one hour. Despite its proximity to the capital, Thai Nguyen city and its surroundings retain a mystical forest atmosphere that envelops visitors in nature’s embrace. This semi-mountainous area remains relatively undiscovered, its true value only fully appreciated by those who venture to explore its unique landscapes.

Sacred forests

Inhabited since prehistoric times, Thai Nguyen became a district during the Lý dynasty and a province during the Tran dynasty, serving as a guardian of the northern flanks of the capital Thang Long (modern-day Hanoi). Emperor Minh Mang established Thai Nguyen as a province in 1831, making it a significant administrative and military center during the Nguyen dynasty and the French colonial period. Migrants from the lowlands settled and cultivated this region, creating a unique agricultural area.

The soil in Thai Nguyen city and districts like Dong Hy, Dai Tu and Phu Luong is particularly suitable for tea cultivation, establishing Thai Nguyen’s reputation as a tea-producing region. The saying “chè Thái, gái Tuyên” (Thai Nguyen is famous for its delicious tea, and Tuyen Quang is known for its beautiful women) is well-known in Vietnam, praising the quality of Thai Nguyen’s tea and the beauty and diligence of women from neighboring Tuyen Quang province.

The vast, flat land of Thai Nguyen is an ancient alluvial terrace formed by the Cau River, which originates from Bac Kan province and flows through Thai Nguyen to Bac Ninh. However, the province’s most famous river is the Cong River, a tributary of the Cau River, originating from the Tam Dao range. This river is  linked to a legendary love story about a shepherd named Coc and a mandarin’s daughter named Cong.

Modern ingenuity created Nui Coc Reservoir, one of the most famous tourist destinations in Thai Nguyen. Viewed from above, the scenery is spectacular, with green hills like emeralds floating in the clear blue water, evoking the words of a famous old song: “The sun rises, turning the legendary scene green, listening to an old story of a young couple…” (Legend of Nui Coc Lake – Pho Duc Phuong).

Thai Nguyen was the site of significant historical events that shaped modern Vietnam. In 1917, the Thai Nguyen Uprising, led by Doi Can and Luong Ngoc Quyen, marked a key moment in the 20th-century fight for national liberation. The forests of Thai Nguyen were a refuge for training anti-Japanese soldiers during the August Revolution in 1945 and held the base of the Dinh Hoa Safety Zone. This zone served as the “capital” of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam’s government during most of the anti-French resistance movement (1947-1954).

Harvesting tea leaves in Dai Tu district

The allure of the wilderness

Every landscape in Thai Nguyen tells a story through the daily activities of its residents. Famous for producing organic Thai Nguyen tea, the tea hills attract tourists with their scenic beauty. Visitors can wander among waist-high rows of tea bushes on hills that stretch into valleys, following ethnic Dao people as they pick tea leaves, while clouds descend from nearby mountain peaks.

Located on the outskirts of Thai Nguyen city, the Tan Cuong tea region boasts vast hills at the foot of the Tam Dao range, such as Hoang Nong and La Bang. Here, visitors can stay in charming eco-lodges.

One notable attraction is Cua Tu Stream, which features seven waterfalls cascading down the eastern slopes of the Tam Dao range. Known as “the seven gates”, the falls stretch for about 30 km before gently flowing into the Cong River. Retaining much of its wild beauty, this area offers relatively challenging terrain, making it ideal for adventure tourism. Villages like Thai Hai are also attracting tourists, with Thai Hai honored among the “best tourist villages in the world”. This village captivates visitors with its rustic yet refined charm, offering a glimpse into the traditional culture of the Tày ethnic group. Visitors can explore the area’s cultural heritage, participate in local customs, and enjoy the serene natural environment for a unique and enriching experience.

Discovering Thai Nguyen’s cultural gem

Returning to the city, imprints of the forests and hills are worth exploring in a Vietnamese architectural gem: the Museum of the Cultures of Vietnam’s Ethnic Groups. Built in 1960 and designed by architect Hoang Nhu Tiep, the structure features an eclectic and grand architectural style and major exhibits that showcase Vietnam’s rich cultural diversity. More than six decades after it was built, the building’s distinctive pink color and motifs inspired by decorative patterns on the houses and clothing of Viet Bac’s ethnic groups still make it a worthy starting point for a journey to discover the history and culture of Thai Nguyen. This starting point is actually a place for reunions, as one visit is never enough.

While Thai Nguyen’s beauty is long-established, it needs to be further refined, like the famous Tan Cuong tea, which leaves a pleasant aftertaste. An ethereal mist truly forms the soul of this land.