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Nam Hoa
Since ancient times, it’s been impossible to think of Quang Nam without picturing the Thu Bon River. As the poet Bui Giang wrote, ‘This autumn I lie remembering the Thu Bon/ The river of the Quang region, the heart and soul of the homeland.’
Originating as small streams in the Ngoc Linh mountain range of Kon Tum province, the Thu Bon River flows like a soft green silk ribbon across Quang Nam province. It stretches from the southwest to the northeast, emptying into the sea at Dai Estuary in Hoi An. Joining with its largest tributary, the Vu Gia River, in the north, it deposits fertile alluvium, creating the rich Quang Nam Delta.
The Thu Bon River is the lifeblood of Quang Nam. In addition to forming the delta and contributing to the establishment of the international trading port of Hoi An, it is the longest and largest waterway in the province. It facilitates the transport of goods from the coast to the mountains and is renowned for its picturesque scenery. Perhaps the most famous landmark along the Thu Bon is Hon Kem Da Dung, a site known to almost everyone who has heard of this river.
On a sunny morning, we embarked on a journey upstream to Hon Kem Da Dung. Our vessel was a “ghe nguon”, a traditional boat designed for navigating against the current. Starting from the foot of Cam Nam Bridge in Hoi An Ancient Town, we set off. Though slow, traveling upstream is the only way to truly experience the river’s essence. The rhythmic waves, the gentle breezes, the boatman’s skillful maneuvering through whirlpools and hidden channels – all of it unfolded at a pace that allowed us to fully appreciate the vibrant life along this verdant waterway. From the boat, we had a clear view of every bend in the river, the towering mountain gorges, and the bustling activity along its banks.
As Hoi An faded into the distance, the blue mountains grew larger. The riverbanks, shaped by erosion and deposition, alternated on either side. Lush greenery dominated the landscape of grass and trees lining the banks, the increasingly dense mountain ranges ahead, and the reflection of the sky in the waters of the Thu Bon.
Famous landmarks along the river appeared one by one: Vinh Dien River, Ky Lam Railway Bridge, Giao Thuy Bridge (where the Vu Gia River merges with the Thu Bon), and the ancient village of Dai Binh. As we journeyed on, the mountains drew closer to the green ribbon of the Thu Bon. At times, the river seemed to narrow, blocked by a long, blue-green mountain slope, only to reveal a clever curve as we approached.
Evening fell as the boat gradually ascended towards the upstream region. Lush green fields lined the water’s edge, where cowherds lit fires to roast corn, the blue smoke curling into the twilight. Occasionally, thatched houses with gourd trellises and small boats dotted the riverbanks. The setting sun painted the river gold, and local children raced their boats, their laughter echoing through the bends and gorges.
Passing from Nong Son to Hiep Duc district, we reached the scenic Hon Kem Da Dung. Though not particularly tall, the sheer cliffs on either side seemed to close in on the river, forcing it to wind through narrow passages, creating an endless game of hide-and-seek between water and stone. We made camp for the night on a small, dry sandbar at the foot of a mountain, enjoying a dinner of grilled shrimp and fish caught fresh from the river.
The early morning air at Hon Kem Da Dung was crisp and pure. Before dawn broke, the melodious songs of barbets and bulbuls echoed through the forest, awakening us. A vibrant blue sky emerged between the verdant V-shaped gorge, its colors mirrored in the green river below. Wispy white clouds, illuminated by the first golden rays of sunlight peeking over the mountains, completed the scene. I held my breath, captivated by this majestic display of nature, afraid that any movement would shatter the magic.
As our boat drifted past Que Lam Suspension Bridge and rounded a bend, the river opened up, vast as a lake. Once again, the landscape astounded us. Two forested arms converged in the middle, a still-dark mountain range formed the backdrop, and over the expansive “lake”, a thin mist rose up the mountainsides while the water’s edge shimmered with the golden light of dawn.
For two days, we floated along the green silk ribbon of the Thu Bon, from Hoi An to Hon Kem and back. Though brief, our journey was filled with unforgettable sights along this river, the very soul of Quang Nam.
