Nguyen Hai

A renowned destination for spiritual tourism, the historic site of Mount Than Dinh stands over 340 meters tall in Rao Da village, Truong Xuan commune, Quang Ninh district, Quang Binh province. Steeped in legends, this site was once compared by the ancients to a realm of “many fairies at Dau Mau, many Buddhas at Than Dinh”. The mountain is divided into three peaks: Ky Lan in the east, Than Dinh in the northwest, and the tallest, Long Lao, in the southwest. These peaks form a valley shaped like a 300-square meter horse saddle. Atop Mount Than Dinh lies Kim Phong Temple –where locals have performed ceremonies for generations, especially during the early spring days of each New Year.

Kim Phong Temple seen from above

Visiting Kim Phong Temple at the start of the year

The temple’s age remains a mystery, with historical documents only recording that at the end of 1624, Dao Duy Tu, a meritorious official of the founding era, visited this region and was invited by a person known as Hoang Phu to visit this mountain temple to read sacred scriptures. Despite many historical upheavals over more than 400 years, Kim Phong Temple has maintained its sacred status, deeply influencing the religious practices of the community in the harsh land of Quang Binh.

The journey begins before sunrise. After about 30 minutes driving from Dong Hoi city along the mystical Ho Chi Minh Road in the early morning mist, the majestic temple gradually comes into view. From the temple gate, I follow a red brick path flanked by towering trees. On early mornings at the start of the year, the temple is crowded with locals and tourists. Amidst the solemn atmosphere, with the gentle fragrance of incense, flickering candlelight, and the sound of the temple bell, it seems everyone becomes respectful and mindful, walking softly and speaking quietly.

Each year, on the fourth day of the first lunar month, Kim Phong Temple organizes a Sacred Water Procession from the Fairy Well, located at an altitude of 342 meters on the mountain, to Kim Phong Temple. Monks perform key rituals to seek salvation and peace, national stability, world peace, and the well-being of all beings.

The Long Dai River, viewed from atop Mount Than Dinh

Reaching the summit of Mount Than Dinh

I often visit Kim Phong Temple at the beginning of the year, aspiring to trek to the summit of Mount Than Dinh to strengthen my health and hope for resilience in the year ahead.

Leaving Kim Phong Temple and walking about 200 meters, the imposing steps leading to Mount Than Dinh appear before my eyes, presenting a proud challenge. Climbing some 1,300 steps is not easy, but it is an interesting journey, beneath the cool shade of the forest trees. Those ascending gasp for air, eagerly asking those descending, “Is the destination near?” Those descending cheerfully encourage the climbers, answering, “Just a few dozen more steps”, even though they are only halfway.

All fatigue seems to vanish as I admire the stunning natural scenery, with the Long Dai River snaking like a dragon before merging into the Nhat Le River. Rao Da Lake is dotted with countless small islands, and lush green fields stretch to the horizon. Upon reaching the summit, I am captivated by the ancient remnants of Non Temple. According to historical records and inscriptions, Non Temple, also known as the ancient Kim Phong Monastery, dates back to the Later Le dynasty and was renovated with bricks from the Nguyen era. Although time and warfare have damaged the temple, it retains its ancient and sacred aura. Everyone longs to visit this place to offer incense and pray for good fortune for themselves and their loved ones in the New Year.

Morning mist covers Mount Than Dinh

From the summit, I continue on to explore two fascinating caves, Trong Cave and Chuong Cave, beside which lie two exquisite brick-laid ancient tombs. These caves feature many stalactites of various shapes on their walls. When struck, these rocks produce sounds resembling drums and bells, creating a strange and delightful acoustic experience.

At the end of the journey, I reach the Fairy Well – a water hole atop Than Dinh Mountain. The water in the Fairy Well is always cool, clear, and plentiful, even at an altitude of over 300 meters and in the driest weather. Believing that this sacred water is sourced from the convergence of Earth’s dragon veins, those who reach the Fairy Well often wash their face, take a small sip, and feel the holy water refresh and enlighten their soul.

Conquering Mount Than Dinh in the early morning is my own annual “health test”. Every spring, I join many locals and tourists on this climb, bringing hopes for a New Year full of strength and peace.