Story: Le Thao
Photos: Ba Ngoc

I have attended many festivals across Vietnam, but few have left as deep an impression as the Lantern Festival in Tuyen Quang. Each autumn, as the Mid-Autumn Festival approaches, the city center bursts to life. Young and old alike – some contributing labor, others materials – come together to create hundreds of enormous lanterns.

Hundreds of lanterns illuminate the square in a dazzling glow

At dawn, groups of residents from every street proudly carry their lanterns to the square. By noon, the area has transformed into a vibrant fairground. Pause in front of any lantern, and its creator will gladly set aside their meal to explain its meaning over a pot of tea, and the story will continue endlessly, inviting you deeper into the artisans’ world.

Artisan Pham Ngoc Toan, around sixty years old, from Minh Xuan Ward, with his younger companion, 1980s-born Pham Van Sang, were among the first to conceive of giant Mid-Autumn lanterns for children in 2004. More than two decades on, they continue to nurture this passion, diligently producing dazzling creations. In early 2025, at the world’s first International Lantern Design and Exhibition held in Vietnam under the theme “Light of the Orient,” Mr. Toan’s model, “The Reunion of Dragon and Phoenix,” won Third Prize, while Mr. Sang received an Encouragement Award.

From young to old, locals eagerly join the festival

As twilight falls, hundreds of lanterns ignite, flooding the square with radiant colors. The preparations are as lively as a professional performance, with hundreds bustling about to complete the final decorations. Each neighborhood organizes additional acts, such as lion dances, dragon dances, and martial arts displays, to accompany the lantern parade. Those escorting the lanterns don brilliantly colored costumes, ranging from traditional ethnic attire to modern outfits. All around, faces beam with joy, and laughter rings through the streets.

The true stars of the festival are the children. Unlike the adults, they gather with their classmates, each carrying a small lantern, which twinkle like stars beside the giant ones. Older students form lantern teams with themes of their own choosing. Simple, sometimes rough-hewn creations are tied to bicycles to join the parade. When a single lantern stretches 10 meters long, hundreds joined together create a parade over a kilometer in length – an enchanting spectacle of color, light, and sound. Even after the official opening ceremony, lantern processions continue nightly for a week, and sometimes until the end of the month.

From young to old, locals eagerly join the festival

The people of Tuyen Quang do not make lanterns to sell but for enjoyment – a pastime that requires effort and expense, yet shines as a vivid expression of creativity and community pride. No two years are alike; every lantern is unique, with artisans constantly experimenting with new techniques. It may be time to recognize this “lantern craft” as a distinctive cultural tradition, which draws visitors to Tuyen Quang’s majestic frontier landscapes and a dazzling festival that rivals grand celebrations in Vietnam’s large cities.