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Nam Hoa
In the heart of the Central Highlands lies a remarkable region – an endless matrix of green hills in Ea Sol commune, Ea H’leo district, Dak Lak province.
Ea Sol commune lies about half an hour’s drive from Ea Drang town – the district center of Ea H’leo. We savored our breakfast and sipped the rich Highland coffee in Ea Drang before heading to Ea Sol, crossing through villages of ethnic Ede, Gia Rai, and Rhade people along the legendary Ea H’leo Stream. Leaving our vehicles at the forest’s edge, we shouldered our bags and eagerly began our journey into the grasslands of Ea Sol.
The local farmers’ hillside fields gradually receded behind us and the verdant forest opened up ahead. To reach Ea Sol’s grasslands, we had to traverse this dipterocarp forest and climb several slopes, braving the region’s characteristic sun and wind. In the whistling wind, the mysterious green forest rustled with singing leaves, its mesmerizing rhythm fueling our desire to explore.
Emerging from the forest, a vast space opened before our eyes: the brilliant green of a grassy kingdom. An undulating matrix of lush green hills stretched out, both captivating and mysterious. The highland breeze caressed the hills, occasionally growing stronger and causing the waist-high green grasses to bow down before gracefully springing back up, like Highland maidens dancing in the wilderness – both untamed and alluring. From the start of our journey, we never felt tired, as the wilderness and grasslands kept leading us from one wonder to another. Walking along the trails through the vast sea of swaying green grasses, I would sometimes deliberately lag behind to watch my companions stroll along the hillsides ahead – like people walking across the sky.
The passionate, majestic melody of “Tinh ca Tay Nguyen” (Highland Love Song) composed by Hoang Van ran though my head:
The Central Highlands sky is blue, blue lakes with blue water
The distant Truong Son Mountains blue, endless green trees
As I followed these passionate footsteps under the deep blue sky, with the undulating blue-green Truong Son mountain range in the distance, the grasslands of Ea Sol suddenly resembled a massive green lake. No, not a lake but rather a sea – a sea of waist-high grasses touching the sky, with endless waves of grass in the highland afternoon. The lush green grasses seemed to stretch to the horizon. On the hillsides, cattle grazed leisurely, while traditional stilt houses peeked through distant tree lines, creating a peaceful scene amid the sun-drenched wilderness.
We set up camp at the summit of a high hill. The long trek through the forest and slopes hadn’t worn us down, as the wonderful experiences along the way had filled us with exhilaration. As dusk fell, the distant peaks of the Truong Son range embraced Ea Sol’s peaceful grasslands, while the lights from Ea Drang town below cast a shimmer into the night sky.
The night brought a cool breeze, whistling through the sea of grass like an endless melody. A bottle of traditional sticky rice wine passed from hand to hand in our circle, creating a warm atmosphere. Our local friend’s voice rose and fell as he passionately recounted the legend of the mythical Ea H’leo River – the tragic love story of Drang and H’leo, whose tears formed the two rivers of Ea H’leo and Ea Drang that now nourish this entire region.
Before dawn, I woke very early to brew a strong cup of coffee, savoring the aroma of the Highlands’ most famous specialty while listening to the singing grass as I awaited the sunrise. Before the sun appeared, its harbinger – the first early morning rays – cast clear light through the Truong Son peaks in the East, making the high clouds burst into translucent amber. I watched in silent rapture, afraid that even the slightest movement or sound might dispel this magical scene.
The sunlight turned Ea Sol’s sea of grass golden, and a delicate mist appeared briefly over the “sea”, revealing itself only to those who sacrificed sleep to witness it. As the mist dissipated, dewdrops lingering on the grass began to sparkle like jewels in the morning light, swaying in the breeze like necklaces adorning mysterious Highland maidens dancing at dawn.
The journey back felt too quick, perhaps because my heart was still full of longing for this masterpiece of nature. The majestic melody echoed within me once more:
E…, those red dirt roads
Winding through the highlands
Years of loving memories…
Indeed, memories of this picturesque region’s sea of grass rippling against the sky will stay with me forever.
Vietnam Airlines offers direct flights linking Hanoi/Ho Chi Minh City with Buon Ma Thuot (Dak Lak).
Please visit www.vietnamairlines.com for more information and special offers.
