Story THUY TIEN
Photos INTERNET

For almost four centuries, fashion magazines have entertained and informed readers while reflecting social change.

A cover of the magazine Cabinet of Fashion in the 18th century

From the beginning

To understand the origins of fashion magazines, we must travel back to 1672, when Mercure Galant was established in France as a publication that encompassed fashion, culture and the arts. The brilliance of Mercure Galant lay in the visionary perspective of its founder, Jean Donneau de Visé, who viewed fashion as a mirror reflecting society that constantly evolved with the times. In special editions during the reign of King Louis XVI, Mercure Galant featured the latest fashions of the aristocracy, illustrated by artist Jean Berain, allowing urban tailors to grasp the mode within the court while simultaneously fostering the country’s textile industry. The structure of a fashion magazine began to take shape, providing readers with both images and interpretive text.

In 1732, the term “magazine” was coined by Edward Cave and gradually spread among the public. From this point, magazines aimed at women began to proliferate. Ladies Magazine introduced fashion trends, occasionally illustrated by the renowned English poet William Blake. Cabinet of Fashion offered advice on everything from new hairstyles to fur gloves. Given the era, however, the perspective on beauty remained dictated by men.

Without delving into changing gender biases, fashion magazines continued to thrive. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many of the classic publications we know today had emerged. In 1867, Harper’s Bazaar was launched, positioning itself as “a repository of fashion, satisfaction accompanied by guidance.” Since its inception in 1892, Vogue has been likened to a dictionary for New York’s elite. L’Officiel, founded in 1921 in France, claimed the title of the “fashion bible” with its focus on scholarly content, while ELLE, published in 1945 after French women gained the right to vote, was dedicated to empowering women in all aspects of social life.

Fashion is Indestructible, a photo series introduced by British Vogue during World War 2

Revisiting a bygone era

Through language and images, each magazine serves as a narrative manuscript of a past era: What styles did people favor? What were their thoughts and lifestyles like? Reading an old magazine, allowing the scent of ink and paper to envelop you, is to permit yourself to rediscover a time filled with its own unique cultural and social characteristics.

Following the evolution of magazines, the portrayal of women reflects changing perspectives in modern photography and gender biases. In 1911, photographer Edward Steichen introduced a revolutionary viewpoint: he believed that modern fashion photography should create an ethereal atmosphere infused with the abstract elements of Naturalism, allowing women to express their innermost selves. Steichen fully embraced this style, producing fashion photographs that were rich in spirit and emotion rather than merely highlighting seams and fabric folds.

British Vogue featured Donyale Luna in March, 1966

However, women’s concerns extended beyond clothing and the pursuit of equality. The outbreak of World War II saw prominent magazines boldly lend their voices. At that time, Audrey Withers, the editor of British Vogue, conceived the idea for the photo series Fashion is Indestructible. In this series, a model strides through the ruins of England following the German bombings. Moreover, the cover of a fashion magazine can reflect evolving perceptions of race. In the past, models of color were often excluded from covers, deemed unable to “sell” products, especially when garments were designed for white women. Yet Donyale Luna, an African-American woman who moved from the U.S. to England in the 1960s, discovered that her beauty was celebrated in Europe. Starting in 1966, Luna became the first model of color to grace the covers of iconic magazines such as British Vogue, Vogue Italy, ELLE and Harper’s Bazaar, paving the way for future generations.

In an age where reading is increasingly encroached upon by audiovisual media, discussions about the future of print magazines have intensified. Most recently, Copy, launched in 2023, has become the first fashion magazine featuring images and content generated by artificial intelligence. Copy compels us to reconsider our belief in humanity’s unique creative abilities while also serving as a seed for the future of print magazines, which may face unpredictable changes. Perhaps future generations will look back at this milestone and recognize it as the genesis of a vibrant wave of digital magazines soon to flourish worldwide. Either way, get ready: once again, magazines will have the answer!