Rebellion and defiance

According to Vogue magazine, the romanticized history of jeans often downplays the role of the working class and the spirit of struggle embodied by jeans. “No garment carries more symbolism, but also pain, than a pair of jeans,” the magazine declared in a video feature.

In the 1920s, jeans became widespread across the American West and were favored by cowboys who embodied America’s rugged individualism, confronting life’s challenges on their own. By the late 1930s, this style was romanticized by Hollywood stars like Gary Cooper and John Wayne.

Jeans would soon go on to resonate with a rebellious and discontented young generation, epitomized by Marlon Brando in On the Waterfront (1954) and James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause (1955). In the latter, James Dean’s iconic look of a white shirt, blue Levi’s jeans and a red windbreaker, coupled with his brooding eyes and portrayal of intense inner turmoil, made him a representative of American teenagers: full of societal disappointment, loneliness and rebellion. Capturing that spirit, American youth eagerly sought jeans to express themselves.

From street to runway

The 60s and 70s were a tumultuous period in American history – marked by the aftermath of two world wars and the ongoing conflict in Vietnam. The generation that grew up idolizing James Dean’s rebellious style had reached their 30s, with sharper political views but still retaining their youthful defiance. The streets became the cradle of social movements and counterculture – and naturally, such a rebellious atmosphere could not be complete without jeans. Embracing the “Flower Power” ethos, hippies adorned jeans with vibrant patterns, using optimistic floral imagery to voice anti-war sentiments. Similarly, feminist activists wore blue jeans to advocate for gender equality. The more schools issued directives banning jeans, the more fiercely American youth fought back.

However, every movement reaches its climax and the 70s and 80s saw the entry of high fashion brands, starting with Calvin Klein, who brought jeans to the runway in 1976. Jeans also infiltrated cultural trends like punk and disco, creating iconic intersections between street style and high fashion. Initially, punk enthusiasts deliberately ripped their jeans as an anti-fashion statement, symbolizing isolation and defiance. Responding to the era’s trends, brands like Jordache and Calvin Klein didn’t hesitate to produce ripped and faded jeans. Along the way, jeans continued to become a common denominator for humanity, erasing boundaries of status, culture and race.

In this realm, the spirit of rebellion became the rule. Not only did it provoke contemporary society, but each new jeans trend also served as a wave of backlash against the preceding trend. Riding the Hip Hop wave of the 90s, wide-leg JNCO jeans contrasted with standard straight-leg jeans – shaking up giants like Levi’s. The childhood of the younger generation of this era was marked by stylish oversized low-rise jeans or carpenter jeans with creatively modified pockets.