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Story: Phuong Khuat
Photo: Bobby Vu – Nguyen Viet Cuong
Traditional fabrics express a deep Vietnamese identity and spirit of craftsmanship.
Silk – memories of the old silk fairs
Among the fabrics traditionally produced in Vietnam, silk has always held the top spot. The smooth and thin material woven from natural fibers is cool in hot weather and warm in cold weather. Moreover, the shimmering appearance of silk makes it a favorite for a variety of fashion applications such as gowns, áo dài, tailored dresses and pajamas.
During the French colonial period of Hanoi, crowded silk market fairs were held on the 1st and 6th day of the month on busy streets such as Hang Dao, Hang Ngang and Hang Gai. At that time, silk handicraft villages relied solely on these market days to sell their silk to merchants such as Aunt Hai Hang Dao, once vividly described by writer To Hoai. Aunt Hai was described as “sitting in an imposing position to measure silk” in “silky white blouse and pants, which made her look like a pile of silk.”
“Aunt Hai picked up some pieces, checking if the silk was flat and had neatly cut edges,” wrote To Hoai. “That’s it. She then threw the pile of silk down on the floor of her shop.”
The most well-known silk-weaving village near Hanoi is certainly Van Phuc (currently in Ha Dong, Hanoi). Van Phuc silk has not only been featured in poetry and film but was considered one of Indochina’s most sophisticated products by the French with appearances at the Fabric & Textile Expo in Marseille (1931) and Paris (1932). Competing with Van Phuc Village’s silk are Nha Xa silk (Ha Nam), Ma Chau silk (Quang Nam), Tan Chau silk (An Giang), and Bao Loc silk (Lam Dong).
Jacquard fabric – as valuable as gold and silver
As one of the most difficult silk products to produce, jacquard fabric was once considered as valuable as gold and silver in Vietnam. There are two types of jacquard fabric: plain and floral. These materials are woven by the nong mot technique applied from rattan weaving, producing pieces of cloth with a soft and smooth surface with a varying depth that causes colors to transform when struck by light at different angles. Producing the jacquard is a highly sophisticated technical process of multiple steps including fabric creation, sizing, dyeing and weaving. La Khe Village’s artisans created over 20 patterns, of which there were intricate stylized ones inspired by folklore, such as Four Mythical Mascots (Dragon, Qilin, Tortoise, and Phoenix), Four Mythical Trees (Pine, Daisy, Bamboo, Apricot), Dual Cranes, Clouds, Sky and Lotus. Due to its superior thickness and shimmering properties, clothes made from jacquard fabric are mostly worn by women on formal occasions. Jacquard fabric is an ideal material for áo dài, long and tailored dresses and elegant suits. In addition, jacquard fabric is used to produce fine art and handicraft items such as blankets, wraps and pillows.
Vietnamese brocade – spirit of the highlands
A fabric that carries the cultural spirit and identity of the country’s ethnic minorities is Vietnamese brocade, a handmade textile featuring woven patterns created using traditional methods. The H’Mong people have another type of brocade, which is knitted and dyed using completely natural trees and leaves. They usually plant flax trees in March or April then harvest in July and August. The flax materials are dried under the sunlight and then stripped into fibers. After weaving is completed, H’Mong women apply printing, wax painting and embroidering techniques onto the cloth. This process not only requires skill and meticulous handiwork but is also seen as a criterion to evaluate one’s talent, quality, ethics and craftsmanship. The fabric goes through many dyeing rounds before it is used to make clothes.
Vietnamese brocade cloth is thick, elastic and durable, making it an ideal choice for not only pants, dresses, and shirts but also souvenir bags, wallets and scarfs. Decorative motifs and patterns stand out in distinctive red, green and yellow colors on a black background.
Despite different compositions, colors and origins, handmade silk, silk brocade and Vietnamese brocade all carry an innate Vietnamese identity and spirit of craftsmanship. As society continues to modernize, more efforts are required to save these traditional handicrafts as they are a priceless heritage for the next generations.
