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Story MINH NHAT
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From individuals to brands, the definition of a fashion icon is constantly evolving.
Living icons
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) is a non-profit trade association established in 1962 with a membership of up to 450 fashion and accessory designers. This extensive list includes globally renowned names such as Thom Browne, Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch, Rick Owens, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and more. CFDA organizes one of the most prestigious annual fashion awards to honor outstanding designers, with a special “Fashion Icon” award presented to a single individual. In 2021, as predicted by many, Zendaya was chosen as that year’s fashion icon.
Zendaya’s captivating face and figure do not diminish the significance of the actress’s icon status. Stylist Law Roach, a crucial player in Zendaya’s fashion connections, admitted that in the early days of entering the industry, it was challenging for the newcomer to obtain desired outfits. Most of what Zendaya wore to events resembled items worn by a few stars before her. The chance of winning the competition of “who wears it better,” often against established figures, was slim. However, these challenges did not deter Zendaya from striving to conquer the fashion scene.
Throughout history, the fashion industry has traditionally celebrated only one type of woman: tall, slender and youthful. If the 2021 icon Zendaya stands at 1.78m with a body index comparable to professional models, the 2023 icon, Serena Williams, is entirely the opposite with her muscular, athletic physique. In 2023, the title of the fashion icon went to the all-time tennis great, the first time an athlete has won the prestigious CFDA award. The win by Williams was a contribution to diversifying beauty standards in fashion. At the same time, her own fashion brand, S by Serena, emphasizes similar values.
Until now, CFDA has awarded the icon title to nine individuals, including Pharrell Williams, Beyoncé and Rihanna. They are highly successful singers, rappers and actors thriving in creative director roles. The commonality among these figures is their genuine passion for fashion and their desire to contribute and even new directions.
The movement of icons
For brands, on the other hand, the term “icon” takes on a more literal meaning, in the monograms and logos representing the brand. Mission magazine recently covered the history of logos, which originated as medieval status symbols, most notably the crests and personal coats of arms.
“In the early 1900s, fashion designers began incorporating their logos into products, often based on the designer’s name. Thus, if a fashion house is a powerful family, the monogram logo is akin to a coat of arms, symbolizing status, wealth and exclusivity – in other words, an icon of luxury in fashion. The application of monogram logos has extended to almost all products of fashion houses, from handbags and suitcases to fur coats. Over more than a century, starting from helping luxury brands distinguish their products and leave an imprint in customers’ minds, logos gradually became a dominating cultural phenomenon. Alongside numerous collaborations such as Louis Vuitton – Supreme, GUCCI – Balenciaga, CHANEL – Pharrell Williams and Fendi – Fila, monogram logos helped pave the way for street culture and mainstream music to enter the world of fashion. Moreover, these iconic logos have also influenced contemporary art and design, shaping the visual landscape of our modern society.
However, with the rise of “quiet luxury,” 2023 marked a significant reduction in the prominence of monograms. The general trend suggests that, ultimately, monograms may be going out of style. At the same time, some major fashion houses seem to be looking for a new approach to logos. The Fall/Winter 2024 season witnessed the debut of Sabato De Sarno in GUCCI’s men’s collection, introducing a new monogram, by downsizing the “GG” with added shadow effects. In the men’s collection of the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 collection, the “LV” sign covered everything from suits to sportswear, paired with matching patterned handbags. The Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 collection, meanwhile, maximized the brand name logo on wool sweaters, shorts, tights, and even vests. Similar developments took place on BOTTER’s Fall/Winter 2024 runway and in Burberry’s Resort 2024 collection.
In the early months of the new year, leading figures in the fashion industry have hinted that logos will make a comeback with an improved minimalist style. Compared to ten years ago, when buyers were looking for monograms plastered on T-shirts, jeans, and sneakers, current fashion fans are seeking simpler versions. Ultimately, despite being highly flexible and adaptable to various new styles, monograms remain a long-standing legacy for brands, and sustainable brands are those that can develop what they already have rather than obsess over trends.
